Aubrey:
I found the clutch cylinder nuts similarly frozen on my '71. It took
some finagling, but I was able to replace the starter on my '71 without
disturbing the clutch cylinder, or the distributor. As I remember, the
biggest problem was a slight interference with the brake hose bracket. I had
to use a little persuasion with a screw driver to pry the starter past the
bracket. This bent the bracket ever so slightly, which eliminated the
interference.
I found the top bolt can be accessed with a socket on an extension. (There
is not enough room to swing a wrench on this bolt.) It was a big pain
getting the top bolt started again on the new starter. It was hard to get it
lined up. I had to leave the lower bolt real loose, and jiggle the starter
as I inserted the bolt.
Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
52 MGTD - NEMGTR #11470
71 MGB - NAMGBR #7-3336
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aubrey Schneider" <aschneider@shaw.ca>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 8:36 PM
Subject: starter motor removal
> I recently put out a request for advice on loosening nuts on a clutch
> slave cylinder.
> According to Haynes any B that has synchromesh needs to have the slave
> cylinder
> moved out of the way in order to make room to drop the starter.
>
> The nuts wont loosen even with copious amounts of Liquid wrench, tapping
> with a hammer etc, etc.
>
> My question is : do I really need to remove a line to remove the
> starter, as Haynes said,or are there other ways of dropping the starter.
> I'm simply loathe to fiddle with the line to the slave, knowing all the
> problems listers have had, trying to bleed the system after a repair.
>
> Your ideas, tips will be most welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Aubrey 75B (in Vancouver BC, where summer still has to open the drapes)
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