At 06:02 PM 8/23/2002 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>... and the transmission can't come out the bottom unless you
>torch through the welded-on crossmember... leaving you the choice of pulling
>the engine and transmission together (my recommendation), or just the engine
>(sounds easier, but more difficult to put back together).
Not true. You can pull the transmission out by itself. I've even done it
with the o/d transmission which is a bit tougher as the clearances are tighter.
I haven't pulled the engine/transmission out as one unit since I did the
overhaul on my 71BGT back in 1983. It not that I'm against the procedure,
it just works best with the right equipment which I don't have. You should
use a pulley device on the engine hoist that allows you to tilt the
engine/transmission at a steep angle during removal and replacement.
Lacking that, I found the chore a bit tougher.
Since 1983, I have pulled the transmission out by itself to (1) replace it
with an o/d unit (2) to overhaul the o/d unit a year later (3) to replace
the clutch (4) overhaul the o/d unit again twelve years or so after the
first overhaul. The last time, I did pull the engine forward with a hoist,
but kept it in the engine compartment, to make it easier to work the
transmission in and out. The other times, the engine stayed in place with
engine mounts remaining bolted.
Now that I'm doing my 72B restoration, I will likely put the transmission
in from below and then lower the engine in. Unless I get one of those Oberg
tilt lifts from Moss but I'd have to order it soon because my engine is
almost ready to go.
The original writer didn't mention whether he had an o/d unit. With a non
o/d unit, you can pull the transmission out by pulling it back as far as
you can then pulling the bell housing down (as I recall). But the o/d unit
needed one modification - a hole about 1.5" in the bellhousing that allows
you to access the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel.
These have to be removed to allow the extra clearance between the pilot
shaft and the flywheel - a trick I learned from a British Leyland mechanic
(the hole size is critical because I use the same rubber cap that goes over
that hole that accesses the oil dipstick).
But back to the original question - for the clutch alone, I think the
easier option is to leave the engine in the engine compartment but use a
hoist to move it forward at least three or so inches and pull the
transmission out from under. During the reassembly, use some 5-6" long
5/16" bolts to pull the two back together in line (lining up is the other
tough part). My very first engine overhaul, I pulled the engine and left
the transmission in place - then spent a good part of a day trying to line
them up again. Now that was a pain. But using the long bolts, you should be
able to get the whole bellhousing symmetrical with the rear engine plate
and pull them together.
David Councill
67 BGT
72 B (soon)
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