OK... I have an OD, and my take was no way it would work (from underneath).
I still would rather work on the clutch, main seals, pilot bushing, etc, out
on the tarmac in daylight, rather than from under the car, or squeezed into
the engine compartment. And I don't find pulling the whole unit difficult --
you just want an assistant in lieu of the pulley device.
But there you have it -- all the possibilities laid out for you...
on 8/23/02 7:43 PM, David Councill at dcouncil@imt.net wrote:
> At 06:02 PM 8/23/2002 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>> ... and the transmission can't come out the bottom unless you
>> torch through the welded-on crossmember... leaving you the choice of pulling
>> the engine and transmission together (my recommendation), or just the engine
>> (sounds easier, but more difficult to put back together).
>
>
> Not true. You can pull the transmission out by itself. I've even done it
> with the o/d transmission which is a bit tougher as the clearances are
> tighter.
>
> I haven't pulled the engine/transmission out as one unit since I did the
> overhaul on my 71BGT back in 1983. It not that I'm against the procedure,
> it just works best with the right equipment which I don't have. You should
> use a pulley device on the engine hoist that allows you to tilt the
> engine/transmission at a steep angle during removal and replacement.
> Lacking that, I found the chore a bit tougher.
>
> Since 1983, I have pulled the transmission out by itself to (1) replace it
> with an o/d unit (2) to overhaul the o/d unit a year later (3) to replace
> the clutch (4) overhaul the o/d unit again twelve years or so after the
> first overhaul. The last time, I did pull the engine forward with a hoist,
> but kept it in the engine compartment, to make it easier to work the
> transmission in and out. The other times, the engine stayed in place with
> engine mounts remaining bolted.
>
> Now that I'm doing my 72B restoration, I will likely put the transmission
> in from below and then lower the engine in. Unless I get one of those Oberg
> tilt lifts from Moss but I'd have to order it soon because my engine is
> almost ready to go.
>
> The original writer didn't mention whether he had an o/d unit. With a non
> o/d unit, you can pull the transmission out by pulling it back as far as
> you can then pulling the bell housing down (as I recall). But the o/d unit
> needed one modification - a hole about 1.5" in the bellhousing that allows
> you to access the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel.
> These have to be removed to allow the extra clearance between the pilot
> shaft and the flywheel - a trick I learned from a British Leyland mechanic
> (the hole size is critical because I use the same rubber cap that goes over
> that hole that accesses the oil dipstick).
>
> But back to the original question - for the clutch alone, I think the
> easier option is to leave the engine in the engine compartment but use a
> hoist to move it forward at least three or so inches and pull the
> transmission out from under. During the reassembly, use some 5-6" long
> 5/16" bolts to pull the two back together in line (lining up is the other
> tough part). My very first engine overhaul, I pulled the engine and left
> the transmission in place - then spent a good part of a day trying to line
> them up again. Now that was a pain. But using the long bolts, you should be
> able to get the whole bellhousing symmetrical with the rear engine plate
> and pull them together.
>
>
> David Councill
> 67 BGT
> 72 B (soon)
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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