Have a look at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk and click on 'Spanners', 'Body
and Fittings', and 'Doors' for info on fixing the Crack of Doom and helping
prevent a reoccurence. Afterwards adjustment of the 1/4-light is critical,
leave a small gap between the *sides* of the frames (the thick part of the
screen seal pressing on the front of the 1/4-light frame is fine).
You mention 'doglegs' so I presume you are replacing both, a good idea prior
to a full paint job as these areas (and the lower front wings) are prone to
rusting through. When he removes the old ones go and have a look at the
sills the cover. You may be lucky and find only surface rust, but
frequently the corrosion will have gone inwards through the sills (bad news)
as well as outwards through the cover panels. When fitting the new panels
use weld-through primer on the inside, then after painting pour clean oil in
through the access hole on the inside behind the doors so that it runs down
in the very narrow space between sill and cover panel. Spray Waxoyl in the
rest of that area, this will not penetrate that narrow space unless
everything is very warm if not hot, just bridge it, hence the oil. Same at
the front behind the removable splash panels.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>
To: "MG list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2002 12:11 AM
Subject: de-chroming
> Also taking the driver side window and mechanism out so
> he can weld in a piece to fix the "crack of doom".
> I have slight bubbling of paint in the dogleg area so
> he will be putting in new Moss doglegs.
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