At 03:34 PM 3/31/03 -0600, Paul Root wrote:
>So on ebay:
><http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34198&item=2409463019&rd=1>
>
>is this oversized throttle shaft reamer. Said to have been purchased from
>Moss. I can't find it in my searches, but I'm probably looking for the
>wrong thing.
It's on the glossy colored Tools page in the front of the Moss catalog,
386-385. Not much of a picture actually.
>What advantage does this have over the make it yourself reamer from
>Chicagoland. (No I haven't done mine yet, I'm kind of dragging my feet).
This is a totally different tool for a totally different reason. The one
on eBay and in the Moss catalog is used to enlarge the bore by only 0.010"
to allow installation of the slightly oversize throttle shaft (.322 dia vs
original .312 dia).
For what it's worth, I did the same thing a few years ago using a letter
"P" drill (0.323 in dia) and a drill press for careful alignment. Use a
5/16" rod in the drill press chuck for alignment until you get the
carburetor body clamped straight in a vice, then change to the P drill to
clean out the bore. After that, rather than drilling out the bore of the
control arms to be attached to the shaft, we used a lathe to turn down the
exposed part of the shaft to the original diameter to accept the arms
without modification.
The home made reamer shown on the Chicagoland web site here:
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/driveline/1001/jasw.html
is larger in diameter, used to open the bore in the carb body enough to
install a thin wall bushing to bring the finish bore back to original size
to accept the stock size throttle shaft.
>Seems kind of expensive, given that a make your own costs about $10 all told.
Uh, yup. Especially when you consider that using a stock size throttle
shaft is also easier when it comes to fitting the lever arms.
>Speaking of the do it yourself one. How do you create the cutting edge at
>the opposite end of the reamer?
Wing it with a hand grinder. This is not trerribly critical, as the shank
of the reamer serves as the alignment guide to keep it running
straight. Even if you get the (rear) cutting edges on the flutes all at
different lengths, and it ends up cutting on only one or two flutes, it
still works okay. Just don't make the undercut on the shank of the reamer
more than half the length of the bushing.
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://MGAguru.com
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