Recently added one of these to my V8 as I reckon the drain of the alarm even
when not set (lives in a garage now and not used daily) has caused me to go
through several batteries in a short time. Prices ranged from #4.50 to #13
for mostly the same item! I got one where the switch 'handle' can be
completely removed as an immobiliser. I put mine on the heel-board right
where the battery cable is, so cutting the cable and soldering on suitable
lugs (used the Navigators cooks blow-torch because it has a pencil-point
flame, but don't tell her) actually gives you more cable length than you
started with. Painted the edges and back of the hole with Waxoyl Underbody
Seal for protection.
There are some with a bypass fuse across the open contacts for a clock and
radio memory but that wouldn't have helped me. However I didn't like having
to reset the clock each time so I ran in a seperate wire with an in-line
fuse to the battery clamp just for the clock. Then realised what I *should*
have done was run in a much shorter wire to the purple in the hatch, then
removed the purple fuse from the main fusebox. Think about it.
It adds about 1/10th of a volt to the volt-drop in the circuit when cranking
which is quite acceptable, always measure this when doing anything to the
main battery cable or battery/engine grounds. Poor soldering where you
don't get the cable and lug hot enough will give a higher volt-drop than
this and get warm when cranking.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tab Julius" <tab@penworks.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 3:18 PM
Subject: Battery Quick Disconnect?
> I know there are some "quick-disconnect" switches out there. I assume
> someone on this list uses them. Is one type better than another? Any
> major problems with them, or with installing them? Where should they best
> be located?
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