The shop that I used to work for had a couple of guys that have been
wrenching on these cars since the dawn o time and they have concluded, from
experience, that the clutch MC seems to take a seal kit well and return to
service, while the brake MC rarely does so. My limited (10+ years)
experience agrees. All of this is provided that the bores are clean, which
is not often the case on a car that has spent a long time laid up.
James Nazarian
71 MGB Tourer
71 MGBGT V8
85 Dodge Ram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Malling" <dmallin@attglobal.net>
To: "Paul M." <rowman22001@yahoo.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 6:04 AM
Subject: Re: MC rebuild vs. replace
> As someone else posted the real question is whether they are rusted or
> not. Most likely they are. That's what tears up the rubber seals.
>
> It's been my experience that you can't usually get the pits out by
> honing the cylinders, but if you can, great.
>
> In my opinion resleeving them in brass or I suppose stainless is better
> than new. They don't rust again. Seems I heard there were problems with
> stainless, but maybe I'm making it up. Like there were problems with the
> stainless staying in place or something -- maybe I'm making it up. You
> better ask. I can't imagine you need more than brass. They're just
> rubber seals moving against it.
>
> Anyway, you might try www.brakecylinder.com. I had my TR250 brake MC and
> clutch slave cyl resleeved in brass and they did a nice job. They came
> back bead blasted and looking like new. The car is in a frame off
> restoration, so I have not installed or used them yet. I think Peter C.
> (the lever shock guy) at www.nosimport.com recommended them. Anyone
> Peter C. recommends is good enough for me. Peter C. is top shelf in my
> opinion -- but that's another story.
>
> Single diameter bore MC's are $65, and dual diameter bores are $110. The
> TR250 was dual bore. Not sure about the MG. I'll have my MG's done there
> when I get to it. I think new MG MC are expensive $170 to $200.00
> depending on the year. The clutch MC on the TR250 is aluminum, so they
> don't rust. Not sure about the MG clutch master.
>
> I didn't do the wheel cylinders but I'm thinking about it. Resleeving is
> $50 each and buying new is half the price, but the resleeved won't rust,
> so is the work in changing them worth $25.00?? But then I already have
> the new ones... Resleeve the new ones?? Hmmm....
>
> NFI yada, yada...
>
> Don Malling
>
>
>
>
>
> Paul M. wrote:
> > My 1971 MGB is losing fluid from both the brake and
> > clutch reservoirs. Somewhat slowly, but also somewhat
> > increasingly. My suspicion is that it's the master
> > cylinders.
> >
> > What is the current consensus on rebuilding vs.
> > replacing the master cylinders? Repair kits are so
> > cheap, but I'm going to be vintage racing this car and
> > I want to make sure the brakes are better than
> > tip-top. Any thoughts? And am I correct in assuming
> > that if I rebuild/replace the clutch master cylinder I
> > should also rebuild/replace the slave, whether it
> > seems to need it or not?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
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