I hate to be contrary, but I have found more often than not that the brass
bits are simply riveted on to the fiber block. They work loose, start to
corrode, and will lose contact between the male spade connector and the fuse
holder. The repair is to solder the two together underneath the fuse block.
Cheers,
Lew Palmer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of David Councill
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:17 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: electrical problem
Can I ask a stupid question? (maybe that was it)
Is it possible for a fuse block to go bad? In getting my 72B on the road
yesterday, I kept losing my instrumentation - fuel, tach, and temperature.
It intermittently goes on and off. During a period of off, I was able to
determine there was no power on the green wire to the voltage stabilizer so
I tracked back to the fuse block. White had power, fuse was good with power
on both ends, even measuring on the metal fuse holder tabs. It looked like
the blades on the green side were losing power - hard to say because then
it all started working again when I was looking at that. Yes, the blades
were clean and its a new wiring harness. So today, I drove the 72B to work,
anticipating lowering the top at noon, and lost the power again half way to
work and it remains off. Car still runs good - just now instrumentation or
turn signals. So right now my guess is with this old fuse block. I'd order
a new one from Moss this morning but thought I'd check the list first to
see if my theory has any plausibility before I blow $30+ USD plus expedited
shipping..
David
67 BGT
72 B
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