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Re: Electric Question

To: "Ray Graham" <rgraham@sigecom.net>, <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: Electric Question
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 09:07:42 -0000
1.  The symptom you describe indicates there is no battery power getting to
the lights etc. when the engine is running slowly, does it crank and start
properly i.e. is the battery OK?  If so then I suspect a break in the brown
circuit between the control box and the fusebox or the lightswitch, possibly
corroded spades at either.  Having replaced the control box (I assume that
is what you meant by 'voltage regulator') check the brown spades and
connectors at the fusebox.  The brown routing is from the battery to one
spade on the control box and from there to the ignition switch, whereas to
get to the lights there is another wire off the control box going to the
fusebox and from there to the fusebox, and from there to the lighting switch
and headlamp flasher.  But if the turn signals are doing the same that
implies the white from the ignition switch isn't getting battery power
either, which would mean the car wouldn't start when cranked with the key.

2.  If the leading edge of the door is too low you will have to slacken the
hinges and slide them up the A-post.  To do this there are four Posidrive
screws visible from the front and one large nut on the back which you get at
by removing the splash shield aft of the front wheel.  If the front is OK
and it is only rear that is hanging remove the door trim and slacken either
the three Posidrive screws holding the door to the top hinge or the bottom
hinge, either will allow you to lift the trailing edge of the door into the
correct position.  Slacken the top if you want the door to sit a little
closer to the A-post to equalise the front and rear gaps, or the bottom if
you want it to sit a little closer to the door shut panel.  This is a
symptom of worn hinges, and you may not have any adjustment left.  If so try
swapping the top and bottom hinges over as they wear on different faces.
See also
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_bodyframe.htm and click on 'Doors'.

3.  Not sure what you mean 'in sequence', the horns are simply wired in
parallel so they both get 12v at the same time, neither are they polarity
sensitive.  Is the right-hand horn working and not the left-hand?  If so
then again check the spades and connectors on both horns.  If that still
doesn't work use jumper leads to connect the suspect horn to the battery.
If *that* doesn't work, well, it's the horn!

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ray Graham" <rgraham@sigecom.net>
To: <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 10:56 PM
Subject: Electric Question


> 1.         My 66 MGB has developed an electric problem in a couple weeks
> ago.  Unless the engine is revved up.the headlights, dashlights and turn
> signals won't burn.
>
> 2.         Can't seem to get my driver side door adjusted to close
> properly.it is hanging too low.how do you raise it to the correct
> height?

> 3. Having a problem wiring a high side horn.  Appears that the high
> side is in sequence to the low side.which works fine.can't seem to find
> the right combination of pos/neg.  Ideas?

Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8





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