Your reply shows that you have no idea what you talking about.
Voltage drop tests are way faster and easier than using an ammeter.
But what the hell do I know, I only taught this shit for 15 years for
a major car maker and have been repairing cars professionally for over
40 years.
::: Shrug:::
On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 5:21 AM, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
> Only the voltage *past* the bad connection will go down.
NO shit Sherlock.
If it is inside > the solenoid - either windings or earth connection
- you won't see that,
> and needs to be at the gearbox switch in order to 'see' anything else which
> is a pain to get to.
first off there had better be a voltage drop inside the solenoid or
you have an open circuit. The load (solenoid) uses up the voltage.
Secondly, it takes about 2 seconds to voltage drop the ground
connection to the solenoid, so that objection is BS
>
> In no way is this easier than using an ammeter inserted at the manual
switch
> for dash switch cars, or the main harness to gearbox harness connector by
> the fusebox for other cars.
Wait, let me get this straight. Touching a voltmeter to two ends of
the circuit is harder than breaking into the harness and wiring in an
ammeter? What color is the sky on your planet anyway?
>
> You *could* use a voltmeter if you inserted an additional resistance
> somewhere convenient (like where you would insert an ammeter above ...) and
> connected the voltmeter on the solenoid side of that. If you use a low
> enough resistance say 10 ohms the solenoid *should* still operate the OD,
> and with the rest of the circuitry operating as it should you should see
> about 8v on the meter. If the disconnection or bad connection is towards
> the supply from your voltmeter connection point i.e. through the manual
> switch then the voltage will drop lower (to zero if a full disconnection).
> If it is towards the solenoid and its earth the voltage will go higher, to
> full system voltage for a disconnection. But you need to take into account
> normal system voltage variations which could be from 12v to 14.5v. But a
> lot of fiddling about getting a appropriate resistance and working out the
> theoretical currents and voltages.
You are not describing a voltage drop test but rather some type of
strange available voltage test. Voltage drop test do not need to take
into account source voltage, as you are only measuring the drop in a
particular circuit, not overall system voltage. What you are
suggesting is NOT what I suggested. Perhaps you should learn what the
hell you are talking about before you go criticizing others. Maybe if
you had read the article I wrote you might have a clue. But then
again you might not.
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