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Re: [Mgs] question about steering rebuild

To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about steering rebuild
From: Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 May 2015 11:09:31 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <003601d091d8$25808ed0$7081ac70$@godblessthe.us> <4DA4685E6F2D4FA5BF8EC00A4362BC1C@paul>
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See below.

 

From: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 2:38 AM
To: crk@godblessthe.us; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] question about steering rebuild

 

What do you mean by shimmying?  If you mean the steering wheel wobbles that
is usually caused by wheel imbalance.  If you find it fades in and out on
the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and slower than on a right
curve, both wheels are out.  That can wear any of the steering and front
suspension components.

 

 

No, not so much the steering wheel, but I can feel the movement through the
steering wheel: it kind of stutters, kind of like something has a gap or
some rubber has broken down and allows some looseness.

 

 

You need to examine and test by levering and waggling all the components and
replace those worn, unless you are going for a wholesale replacement and
rebuild.

 

 

Since it's been an unknown but long time since I know the suspension and
steering bits and pieces have been R&Red. The car says it's gone 80 thousand
miles, presumably accurate and only on the first 100000 miles, so I don't
think it unreasonable to replace rubbers and possible cap pieces as well as
the Tie Rods.

 

 

MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper trunnion, as are wheel
bearings, and the rack damper.  Incidentally I'm not aware of the MGB rack
damper being rubber, it is steel on the ones I have dug into.

 

Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - that is if there is any
oil left in them.  Top them up first and see what happens.  Again MGB
dampers can be revalved to stiffen the suspension, if that's what you want,
or you can put a different grade of hydraulic fluid (not oil) in them, but
the Workshop Manual recommends not going above SAE20, and that only in warm
climates.  By 'modern' do you mean damping on modern cars?  Or on
after-market dampers on these classic cars?  In both cases they tend to be
harder anyway, some of the offerings for the MGB ridiculously so.

 

 

These are on an MGA, and I presume a decent hydraulic fluid is adequate? Yes
modern is referring to modern cars and their suspension, particularly the
shocks. I know they have different characteristics. On a modern car you jump
on and off a corner of the car and you get about 1.5 cycles. On my MGA, I do
that, and it dampens after maybe three cycles. I don't know if that is to be
expected on a 60's English car, that's all.

 

 

Clayton

 

PaulH.

 

----- Original Message ----- 

When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on bumpy roads, I get a
lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes down the highway smoothly;
no veering and only above 70 do I start to get some shimmying.


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lang=3DEN-US link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>See below&#8230;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> PaulHunt73 =
[mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, May 19, =
2015 2:38 AM<br><b>To:</b> crk@godblessthe.us; =
mgs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Mgs] question about steering =
rebuild<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>What do =
you mean by shimmying?&nbsp; If you mean the steering wheel wobbles that =
is usually caused by wheel imbalance.&nbsp; If you find it fades in and =
out on the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and slower than =
on a right curve, both wheels are out.&nbsp; That can wear any of the =
steering&nbsp;and front suspension components.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>No, not so much the =
steering wheel, but I can feel the movement through the steering wheel: =
it kind of stutters, kind of like something has a gap or some rubber has =
broken down and allows some =
looseness.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>You need to examine and test by levering and waggling all =
the components and replace those worn, unless you are going for a =
wholesale replacement and rebuild.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Since it&#8217;s been an =
unknown but long time since I know the suspension and steering bits and =
pieces have been R&amp;Red. The car says it&#8217;s gone 80 thousand =
miles, presumably accurate and only on the first 100000 miles, so I =
don&#8217;t think it unreasonable to replace rubbers and possible cap =
pieces as well as the Tie Rods.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper =
trunnion, as are wheel bearings, and the rack damper.&nbsp; Incidentally =
I'm not aware of the MGB rack damper being rubber, it is steel on the =
ones I have dug into.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - that is =
if there is any oil left in them.&nbsp; Top them up first and see what =
happens.&nbsp; Again MGB dampers can be revalved to stiffen the =
suspension, if that's what you want, or you can put a different grade of =
hydraulic fluid (not oil) in them, but the Workshop Manual recommends =
not going above SAE20, and that only in warm climates.&nbsp; By 'modern' =
do you mean damping on modern cars?&nbsp; Or on after-market dampers on =
these classic cars?&nbsp; In both cases they tend to be harder anyway, =
some of the offerings for the MGB ridiculously =
so.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>These are on an MGA, and =
I presume a decent hydraulic fluid is adequate? Yes modern is referring =
to modern cars and their suspension, particularly the shocks. I know =
they have different characteristics. On a modern car you jump on and off =
a corner of the car and you get about 1.5 cycles. On my MGA, I do that, =
and it dampens after maybe three cycles. I don&#8217;t know if that is =
to be expected on a 60&#8217;s English car, that&#8217;s =
all.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Clayton<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>PaulH.</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:=
5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original =
Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman",serif'>When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on =
bumpy roads, I get a lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes =
down the highway smoothly; no veering and only above 70 do I start to =
get some =
shimmying.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></blockquote></div></body></html>
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