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What do you mean by shimmying? If you mean the steering wheel wobbles =
that is usually caused by wheel imbalance. If you find it fades in and =
out on the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and slower than =
on a right curve, both wheels are out. That can wear any of the =
steering and front suspension components.
You need to examine and test by levering and waggling all the components =
and replace those worn, unless you are going for a wholesale replacement =
and rebuild.
MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper trunnion, as are =
wheel bearings, and the rack damper. Incidentally I'm not aware of the =
MGB rack damper being rubber, it is steel on the ones I have dug into.
Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - that is if there is =
any oil left in them. Top them up first and see what happens. Again =
MGB dampers can be revalved to stiffen the suspension, if that's what =
you want, or you can put a different grade of hydraulic fluid (not oil) =
in them, but the Workshop Manual recommends not going above SAE20, and =
that only in warm climates. By 'modern' do you mean damping on modern =
cars? Or on after-market dampers on these classic cars? In both cases =
they tend to be harder anyway, some of the offerings for the MGB =
ridiculously so.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on bumpy roads, I =
get a lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes down the highway =
smoothly; no veering and only above 70 do I start to get some shimmying.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What do you mean by shimmying? If you mean the =
steering=20
wheel wobbles that is usually caused by wheel imbalance. If you =
find it=20
fades in and out on the straight, but fades quicker on a left curve and =
slower=20
than on a right curve, both wheels are out. That can wear any of =
the=20
steering and front suspension components.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You need to examine and test by levering and =
waggling all the=20
components and replace those worn, unless you are going for a wholesale=20
replacement and rebuild.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>MGB front swivel axles are shimmed under the upper =
trunnion,=20
as are wheel bearings, and the rack damper. Incidentally I'm not =
aware of=20
the MGB rack damper being rubber, it is steel on the ones I have dug=20
into.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dampers only need replacing if they are leaking - =
that is if=20
there is any oil left in them. Top them up first and see what=20
happens. Again MGB dampers can be revalved to stiffen the =
suspension, if=20
that's what you want, or you can put a different grade of hydraulic =
fluid (not=20
oil) in them, but the Workshop Manual recommends not going above SAE20, =
and that=20
only in warm climates. By 'modern' do you mean damping on modern=20
cars? Or on after-market dampers on these classic cars? In =
both=20
cases they tend to be harder anyway, some of the offerings for the MGB=20
ridiculously so.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
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PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV>When I hit the road in my 62 II deluxe, especially on bumpy =
roads, I get=20
a lot of rumbling , clunking and shaking. She goes down the highway =
smoothly;=20
no veering and only above 70 do I start to get some=20
shimmying.</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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