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Re: separating aluminum and steel parts

To: Jack W Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
Subject: Re: separating aluminum and steel parts
From: Bob Moore <mustang@best.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:16:39 -0800 (PST)
I tried to do the same thing, except mine was bolted on- ended up snapping
off several bolts flush with the block, one broke off flush with the head-
suggest you try double nutting the studs to remove them one by one, or
perhaps welding a nut to the top of the stud to remove it- good luck!  we
have a flathead rebuilder here in San Jose if you need a new block, etc-
sounds like a flathead ford?

best regards,

-bob

http://www.vmoa.org
http://www.vmoa.org/bob

On Wed, 6 Jan 1999, Jack W Drews wrote:

> 
> I am working on the restoration of a 1930's vintage classic car. I am
> trying to remove the quite large aluminum heads, each secured to the
> block with 21 studs, 1/2" diameter. As you can imagine, electrolysis has
> had sixty years to do its thing with the studs and the aluminum head
> casting. The pistons are frozen in the bores so I can't use the rope
> tricks or compression tricks. 
> 
> After three days of attacking it with slender wedges of all
> descriptions, vibratory tools applied to the studs, and so-called
> "penetrating" oils which really don't, I humbly ask the list's
> collective wisdom: What are the current methods for separating
> aluminum/steel corroded joints?
> -- 
> uncle jack
> Happiness is a warm garage....
> 


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