Ralph,
the grinder will do the job but there are better tools... I'm assuming you
don't have a torch (oxy-Act). That would be the quickest way to remove
it...
generally side grinders are made to be used on the flat surface of the disc
with the rear of the disc slightly elevated so you are using the front edge
of the disc to do the cutting. You can use the edge but you need to
exercise more caution. Especially at square corners. The disc can catch
on the corner and fragment or possibly knock the grinder out of your hand
or into something you don't want ground upon. Use a light touch and a firm
grip around corners.
It will be possible, although time consuming depending on the thickness and
hardness of the weld bead to remove it that way... buy a 10 pack of disc,
some safety glasses or a full face shield and a stool.
The difference in grinders is basically amount of material it will remove
in a certain amount of time.. In one minute a 9" grinder will remove more
material than a 4=" unit simply because more abrasive is attacking the
material. But you need to factor in how strong you are... those larger
units are heavy and after a few minutes your arms are aching. Usually the
larger units are used by ironworkers, fabricators etc who have a large area
of weld to smooth... not just a single bead from a wire welder... but a
weld bed that might be several inches across and any number of feet long.
The average home welder would do well with a 4 or 4=" unit. The
consumables (disc) are usually around $1 to $2 apiece depending on
quality... you can find them cheaper at discount places, but they don't
hold up as long... go with a brand name like Dewalt or Singh or Milwaukee..
the commercial grade last 2 to 3 times longer than the imports.
The same is true of the grinders themselves.. I have three.. a Craftsman,
a Makita and a Harbor Freight. I've used the Craftsman for about 8 years
sometimes for hours at a time and it won't give up.. the same for the
Makita.. with the Makita being a little quieter running (not
grinding...just running) I bought the Harbor Freight as a throwaway
sanding unit so I wouldn't have to keep changing from grinding disc to flap
disc.. I paid 17.00 for it and it's worth about that. You can use it for
about 15 minutes and the plastic case and the brush holders are so hot you
have to have gloves on to hold it. It vibrates more and it about half
again noisier (?) more noisy ??? than the other two. When it dies, I'll
take the disc off and cut off the cord and trash it....( I bought it before
I found the good deal on the makita) I keep a grinding disc in the
Craftsman, a wire brush on the Makita and the flap disc on the H.F. cuts
down on changes that way.
What ever you do buy, use it safely... wear proper safety equipment,
glasses or face shield.. make sure you operate with cords, clothes and
anything else that can get tangled clearly out of the way.. Work in a
comfortable position... fatigue leads to failure. Don't overload the
tool... excess heavy pressure only shortens the tools life and the disc
life.
They make grinding disc in various grits and materials for matal and
masonry.. make sure to get the metal cutting kind..
They also make what I've referred to as flap disc.. this is the best thing
since sliced bread. They mount just like the grinding disc. picture a deck
of cards fanned out on the table with each card overlapping the next. the
flap disc work the same way with abrasive paper fanned out around the
center of the disc. As the edges wear a new abrasive is ready to work...
With fine grits you can polish frame rails to a mirror finish... again buy
name brand... and the "zirconium" ones last 3 times longer than mere emery
cloth types.
end of epistle
hope that helps... I'm sure the real experts will give you some more good
information.. this is just from my experience..
john
" I have never completely understood anything ! "
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