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E-track mounting and other trailer questions

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: E-track mounting and other trailer questions
From: "Brad Kahler" <brad.kahler@141.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 13:35:30 -0600
I'm in the process of converting a 31' Airstream trailer into a 
2-race car transporter.  In doing so I've come up with a few 
questions.....(actually more than a few!)

Ok, here's the specifics for the Airstream frame.

3/4" tongue and groove plywood supported by trailer frame. 
E-track to be mounted to the trailer main rails. The main rails 
of the trailer are u-channel 3/32" steel with a box side welded 
in that has perforations (similar to those found in airplane 
wings) for access to the inside of the channel.  Some of the 
trailer wiring runs down these main channels.

The main rails are 60" apart center line to center line.  There 
are cross supports between the main rails made of the same 
construction and they are 24" on center starting from the front 
of the trailer.  

The main rails are approximately 2" wide by 4" deep by about 
28' long. 

I think I will have to weld lengths of  angle iron (say 1x1x1/8) 
onto the sides of the main rails in order to attach one side of 
the e-track to with the other side of the e-track fastened to 
the main rails themselves.  I'd really like to have e-track run 
the full length of the trialer or at least most of it.  

Obviously the e-track will be mounted on top of the plywood.  
The airstream has an under belly skin made of sheet 
aluminum.  This was done for aerodynamics as near as I can 
tell.  In order to remove this skin I would have to drill the pop 
rivets out and then reattach.  I'd prefer not to have to go 
through that ordeal if I don't have to.  

So the question is, would self tapping screws be sufficient for 
mounting the e-track?  For some reason I have my doubts 
but can't put my finger on the reason for that.  If it requires 
twice the number of screws if I use self tapping that wouldn't 
be a problem.  If I HAVE to use bolts and nuts then I will, but 
I'll gripe and complain the whole time!

Considering that most stress should be in a shear direction 
I'm hoping that self tapping will be sufficient.

The loads involved will be Triumphs.  Anything from street 
cars to race cars.  I will of course have to monitor the total 
trailer weight and not haul two cars if I'm over the limit, 
common sense has to come in here somewhere!

Odds are the trailer will either haul two race cars, a TR4 and 
a TR3 race car.  Or, one street car such as a Mayflower or 
TR4, etc.  

Towards the front we plan on building in the provisions for 
having a bath and shower, stove, etc to make it into a living 
compartment as well.  Think modular here and you might get 
a feel for the direction we're going.  We want a versitale 
trailer that can be reconfigured for either towing our race cars 
to the track or towing a street car to some event somewhere.  

The cars will be loaded through the rear where I plan on 
removing the rear section at the last main rib and hinging it 
with hydraulic cylinders to hold it open (as found in 
hatchbacks, etc).  I have already obtained a spare aluminum 
rib that was used in the trailer construction and will use that 
to strengthen the hatch portion where it is cut away from the 
trailer.

Any other thoughts or suggestions on this would be 
appreciated.  

Thanks


Brad

Our Triumph Web Site Http://www.141.com/triumphs 
(updated 6/30/2001)
Our Dodge Web Site Http://www.141.com/dodge (updated 
6/30/2001)
Our Amphicar Site Http://www.141.com/amphicar

1951 Dodge 1/2 ton B3B pickup (being restored)
1953 Mayflower TT29490LDL (actually runs and stops!)
1956 TR3 based Devin F model
1957 TR3 Vintage Racer TS15222L
1962 TR4 CT288L (being restored)
1962 TR3B TCF1564L (some day)
1964 Spitfire 4 BFC25720L (of Belgian decent)
1964 Amphicar 101232
1965 Herald Sports 1200
1967 TR4A CTC58351L (AKA Freddy)
1968 TR250 (needs total restoration)

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