James,
My front end has the top of the front tires at least 1 inch further out
from the bottom of the tire. I see no shims anywhere in the front setup
(but then, I've worn glasses since age 8...)
It looks bilateral. You mention 2 degrees positive which matches my
book...my current setup has to be at least 5...the entire outside tread
bar is gonzo, the inside tread bar barely looks worn.
Because it's bilateral, and because the previous owner had spring
compressors on the front coils, I worried about unseen damage.
I'll get all the bushes and such changed on the entire car before I
worry about the actual steering geometry...as I doubt that I want the
twitch that I discovered when I drove it back from the purchase
site...I got into the freeway ruts south of Olympia (I-5) made by
studded snow tires and dang near stuffed it into the median. Not a fun
experience.
John
James Carpenter wrote:
>
> Sounds like someone has added shims to improve handeling, you will need to
> remove them. They are added to the lower wishbone pivots, just where they
> bolt onto the chassis. The Spitfire was supplyed with the bottom of the
> front wheels tucked in and the rear wheels out, to maximise understeer so
> that the hairdresser didn't get into trouble in corners. People then got
> more of these shims and put the front to about 0 deg to make the cornering
> better, much more than 0 and I would imagin that steering becomes a bit
> twitchy.
>
> My car has normal camber but if you shouted boo it would jump over the other
> side of the road.
>
> Anyway the factory cambers are 2 deg positive front +- 1/2, and rear 3 3/4
> deg negative.
>
> Don't know howmany shims you need, I would imagin to add two degrees all
> round you would use 8 shims. 2x4 shims.
>
> So if you have negative camber at the front and you want positive, remove
> some shims.
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