Hi Jeff,
With all the problems you've been having with your MK3, chances are you'll
need to clean the comutator, replace the brushes, and lubricate your
generator. It's really not that hard, and it's something you'll eventually
have to do anyway. Removing it is only a matter of 3 bolts. You'll probably
have to remove the whole generator in order to remove the armature assembly
nut anyway. DON'T stick a screwdriver in there to immobilize the shaft.
Once the generator is out of the car, there are 2 ways to remove the nut.
There are 3 types of pulleys: 1) cast iron 2) pressed and riveted steel 3)
Bakelite. If it's cast iron you can put the pulley in a vise and unscrew the
nut. If it's steel or Bakelite you stand a risk of damaging the pulley. In
that case it would be best to remove the armature and place the whole
armature in the vise. You can remove the armature by unscrewing the 2 long
screws that secure the 2 end brackets to the field coil body. Make sure you
protect the armature from damage when it's placed in the vise.
Once the nut is removed, the pulley may not want to come off. You can
usually find a pulley remover (safe way) at most auto stores for less than
$10. I usually just put the nut back on flush with end of the shaft and
whack it with a wood mallet. There may still be a woodruff key in there if
the pulley isn't rotating on the shaft.
Clean, lubricate, reassemble, have it tested if you want to make sure it puts
out a charge.
Your lone horn should have an H or L on it. Find the opposite letter for the
2nd horn.
Grease zerks are usually OK if you don't care about originality. You might
want to remove the zerk on the vertical links and make sure that grease has
not been used as lubrication. These swivels use SAE90 gear oil. You can get
by for a while if they are greased, but sooner or later the trunnions will
start to wear excessively and they might need to be replaced.
Bill Brockschmidt
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