Where are you and what series bonnet do you need?
M D Nugent
Renton, WA
--- Nick Moseley <nmoseley@dccnet.com> wrote:
> I'd appreciate the collective wisdom and experience
> in how you've dealt with
> a rusty bonnet.
> Any pictures would be great !
> I spent much of Fri nite waiting 2 hours for a guy
> to show up (he didn't)
> who was selling a "project" that had a great body
> and rust free bonnet. Upon
> visiting again the next day, it didn't, well sort
> of. Inner fenders at the
> wheel arch had rotted through to the outers, but the
> metal of the fenders
> themselves including arches seemed okay. Previous
> bondo-ed repair at the
> leading edge of one arch.
>
> I've already got a bonnet with rusted inners, and
> rust through under the
> side maker lamp. In my ignorance, I'm thinking that
> in order to fix the
> inners and make them look right, I'll have to take
> the bonnets apart, and
> that if I have to do that, I might as well replace
> the side panels (front
> fenders) as well. If that has to be done on both
> bonnets then I might just
> as well work on the one I've already got.
>
> So what to do?
> Replace: cost wise a local vendor wants $750. for a
> good bonnet (I don't
> know if that means needs "some" work, or no work).
> Repair: parts from Spitbits price out at $550. Can,
> but plus shipping,
> duties etc. (Fenders, inner and outer wells,
> headlamp mounting panels).
> Skill wise, I've successfully fabricated a lower A
> post replacement, and
> installed it along with a new rocker (sill) panel.
> (Sounds good, but what
> may have taken someone else a couple of days took me
> _months_).
>
> My next step is to check out the "good" bonnet from
> the local vendor.
> I'm asking for input as, before looking further, I'd
> like to know if people
> have had success with patch panels, or whether
> replacing the whole pieces
> with new and rebuilding the bonnet is the only way
> to make it look "right".
>
> Many thanks for all contributions
>
> Nick Moseley
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