Frank,
I have no living remnants of the original door pockets. I do have plenty of
masonite hardboard leftover from the rest of my panel job. I'm probably
not going to use it though. The PO had apparently made a set of panels out
of thin Luan plywood and covered them with a piece of close cell foam over
which he applied the vinyl. The panels are slightly oversize in length and
actually bow when screwed into place. So I don't think I'll need the metal
pieces to provide the bowing. Unless they have another purpose.
I was thinking about hollowing out the panels (i.e., carve out the close
cell foam) in the middle of the panel in the shape of the indent on the
original. Once done with that, put on my new vinyl gluing firmly in the
hollowed out section. That would give me an indent, but not one that is as
pronounced as the original. I may just scrape off all of the foam and lay
down a piece of 1/8" cardboard in the proper shape. Vinyl over the top of
that would give a nice indent. The way Original Sprite and Midget has it,
that's the way they did it originally.
What are your thoughts on this tact. Are your panels original or have you
tried to simulate the indention?
Jeff
BTW - I could find no carpet store in my area that carries the ribbed
rubber or vinyl used in the door pockets. I did find a wider spaced ribbed
vinyl at my local HQ. I cut it out and dummyed it up into place. I looks
good. Not concours, as you pointed out, but so what. Like I said, it looks
good. And as Fernando always says, "It is better to look good, than to feel
good"
----------
> From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@exit109.com>
> To: Jeff Church <jchurch@exis.net>
> Subject: Re: Bugeye Door Panels
> Date: Saturday, October 25, 1997 6:54 PM
>
> Jeff
>
> If you do not have any remnants of the door pockets, you will be in for a
tough
> job.
> Not impossible, but no fun. If you have the metal bits (top "U" channel
and
> side/bottom "Z" metal)I can give you some measurments.
> If not, make the panel (masonite) to the measurements of the door recess,
add
> about 3/4" in width, pick up a piece of soft steel, 1/8" X 1/2" from any
> hardware store (same stuff you use for the top to windshield clip) bend a
small
> arc in the steel, rivet or bolt it to the masonite, cover with vinyl in
and
> out, use small screws with nuts to hold it in place, 4 black screw will
> disappear in black trim. Use chrome or stainless (10/32s) if you have any
other
> color.
>
> Good luck
> Frank
>
> Jeff Church wrote:
>
> > Hi Rick,
> >
> > No there is no "pattern" per se, but it does have an indention. As
> > Horler's ORIGINAL SPRITE AND MIDGET says, "The panel applied to the
door
> > differed in that the material was laid over an additional thin
cardboard
> > former to produce a shallow recessed effect in the centre of the panel.
The
> > top edge of this was further formed by a curved steel edging strip
which
> > produced a convex panel allowing an increase in the door pocket space."
> >
> > I made all new panels for my Bug (using the Frank Calrici method)
except
> > for the door panels. I have been trying to figure out how to produce
the
> > effect described above.
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Rick & Carolyn <walters@mail.softcom.net>
> > > To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Bugeye Door Panels
> > > Date: Friday, October 24, 1997 10:40 AM
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I need some info on the bugeye door panels. Is there a design on the
> > > panel? It looks like there is a embossed square on the pictures.
The
> > > kit that came from Moss doesn't have these or instructions. It may
go
> > > back, It is not very well put together. Any Help would be
appreciated.
> > > Is there a better kit out there?
> > >
> > > I haven't tried Vikkey Brit. Yet.
> > >
> > > I want my Frog to look it's best.
> > >
> > > Rick Walters
> > >
> > > 52 MGTD, 74 MGB, 76 XJ12C, & Puddles (60 Frogeye)
> > >
> > > softcom.net/users/walters
>
>
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Too many Sprites
> http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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