I had the same problem on one side of my '74 Midget ( the other side came
off sweetly) and no amount of any penetrating oil or heat would take it off.
The tie rod itself finally twisted off and it cost me $122 US to buy a new
one. Sorry to let you hear this, but it could be.....
Geoff Branch '74 MIdget "Yellow Peril"
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Maclean <macleans@earthlink.net>
To: Dave Vrba <Dave_Vrba@mail.sel.sony.com>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: (Clarifying my situation) Removing tie rod end ball joints
>Dave,
> I just rebuilt my rack, so I'm somewhat familiar with what you are
talking
>about. If the rack is out of the car, you can stick the ball joint assembly
in
>a vise and back the lock nut off. If it is still in the car, there are two
>flats inboard of the threads of the tie rod. A big cresent wrench on these
>flats will keep the rod stationary so you can loosen the locknut. Of
course it
>is much easier if the ball joint is still in the steering arm. A little
Liquid
>Wrench or similar would also be appropriate.
> Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
>
>Dave Vrba wrote:
>
>> Hello Listers:
>> I need to clarify my situation on removing the tie rod end ball
>> joints. I do not need guidance on how to get the ball joints out of
>> the steering arm but on how to get the outer ball joint off the
>> threaded tie rod end. The ball joint connection at the steering arm
>> was relatively easy to disconnect.
>>
>> But I can't get the nut or the ball joint assembly loose. This is
why
>> I'd asked about reverse threads etc. in previous post. This would
>> probably explain the "wobbly" condition it stated also. With the
ball
>> joint loose from the steering arm, everything is pretty wobbly.
>>
>> Hope this clarifies my request for help.
>>
>> Dave '62 MKII Sprite
>> Dublin, CA
>> HAN6L14083
>
>
>
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