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Re: Sprite Heater valve

To: chuckc@ibm.net
Subject: Re: Sprite Heater valve
From: Dave Woerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:27:54 -0600
Cc: Dave Vrba <Dave_Vrba@mail.sel.sony.com>, spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <00121C38.4532@mail.sel.sony.com> <36AF96F6.5850054B@wi.net> <36B05C80.D0C12DB5@ibm.net>
Reply-to: Dave Woerpel <dwoerpel@wi.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Dave,
My valve has the solid handle, not the webbed one, and maybe there's a 
difference.
Everything comes apart on mine.  I see you already have a reply.  Let's see if 
there
is a difference.
Remove the wheel after unscrewing the valve all the way to the open position.
Above the outlet on the main cylinder there should be 2 "flats"; unscrew the top
hex-sided portion from the cylindrical base.  Withdraw the valve stem.  Unscrew 
the
top hex portion (would be under the turning wheel) from the hex-sided body.  
Inside
is the packing or what is left of it.  I replaced the valve stem and slid an 
O-ring
down the stem pushing it all the way down.  Replace the top hex part with teflon
tape or plumbers sealant(haven't had luck w/ RTV).  Wrap the other threads w/ 
teflon
or sealant and screw into the body.  Attach the entire assembly (teflon or 
sealant
again) to the base.
Let me know if the other valves are different from this; if so how, and when 
was the
change over?
Good luck,
Dave
59 :()

chuckc wrote:

> How did you get the old heater valve apart to replace
> the packing with the o ring? On my 1275, I can't seem
> to get the valve apart. It does not leak with the valve
> open because the valve stem is snug up against the top
> of the valve body. However, in any other position, it
> leaks a little out the valve stem hole.
>
> chuck
>
> Dave Woerpel wrote:
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > Having just done the same to my valve, I think I figured out why the paper
> > washer and the metal washer is are there.  The paper washer obviously to 
>seal
> > and the metal one is, I believe a shim so that when the unit  is tightened 
>on
> > the head, the outlet will be at the correct angle for the hose going to the
> > heater core.  Trouble is, you have the head, paper gasket, metal shim, valve
> > body (also metal).  I used some teflon tape.  Anyone else have any ideas on
> > this?
> >
> > The inside of the valve used the old packing; I substituted an "O"-ring and
> > it's a little hard to turn (vaseline would probably help) but it does not 
>leak
> > out the top by the handle(wheel thingie).
> >
> > Maybe someone else can shed some light on what was used originally.
> > Regards,
> > Dave
> > 59 :()
> > 59 MGA
> >
> > Dave Vrba wrote:
> >
> > >      Hello listers,
> > >      I am doing an overhaul of the heater valve on my '62 sprite to stop a
> > >      gradual cooling leak.  I definitely need a new base (bottom of valve
> > >      that bolts to the block).  It's pretty chewed up with corrosion.
> > >
> > >      My question????  How many and why is there a washer between the valve
> > >      assembly and the base?  What are they made of?  The "stuff" I cleaned
> > >      out was like a packing material.  All the parts books state the qty
> > >      needed as "as required".
> > >
> > >      TIA
> > >
> > >      Dave Vrba
> > >      '62 Sprite MKII
> > >      Dublin, CA




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