Good advice from Jeff, but if your crank pulley hasn't been off in 25
years or so, it may not come off this "easily". Mine didn't. No cheater
bar etc. worked. I needed an impact wrench. Since I don't have air
tools, this was alittle bit of a problem.
There is another method that involves letting the cheater bar rest against
the engine compartment or ground and engaging the starter. I have never
tried this, and you'll have to find someone else to recommend this method
to you :-)
Ulix
On Tue, 22 Jun 1999, Jeff Boatright wrote:
> Tom,
>
> First, Ulix' JB weld/washer/super glue fix sounds like the way to go. But,
> to answer your question, you don't have to pull the engine to get the
> timing cover off. You will need to pull the grill and radiator, loosen the
> front engine mount bolts, and jack the engine up so that the pulley clears
> the front crossmember. When I replaced my seal, I had to jack the egnine to
> the point that it was slightly lifting the front end! Anyway, then, you
> need get the front pully off, which requires a 1 - 5/16th socket on a
> cheater. The only socket of this size that I could find took a 3/4" drive.
> Luckily my neighbor had one. Then you need to pry the front pully off. I
> used a couple of crow bars. Then you need to remove the forest of bolts
> holding the cover on. Yes, their heads are of two sizes, both of which
> escape me right now (1/2 and 3/8??). Finally the cover will come off. But,
> you're not done yet. You'll probably need a new front seal and definitely a
> new cover gasket. You also need to check that the mating surface of the
> cover (with all the bolt holes) is flat, flat, flat. It's usually puclered
> around the bolt holes. This, along with an old seal, is often the source of
> oil leaks from the front of the engine. When replacing it all, the seal
> should fit snuggly into its pocket - I applied greas liberally inside and
> out (see Haynes). The gasket should only require blue goo on the cover
> side, though many folks put it on both sides. Finally, there are in fact
> torque values for all of those bolts.
>
> Surprisingly, the hardest part of the reassembly, for me, was realigning
> all of the pieces of sheet metal that the radiator screws pass through.
> Colin Chapman would've been proud of the parsimony followed by the
> designers. More or less, four sheet metal screws hold the fronts of our
> cars together. I suggest clamping the pieces of sheet together before
> removing the radiator mounting screws. This may require drilling new holes
> through the sheets (but avoiding the rad mounts) so that the various body
> panels are held in place after you remove the rad mount screws.
>
> Aren't you glad you asked? As I said, try the Ulix fix first. BTW, one of
> the local shops here estimated $300 to replace the front seal, in case you
> were wondering.
>
> Jeff
>
> ---
> On 6/21/99, Tom Zuchowski wrote:
> >Again I turn to the accumulated wisdom of the List. . .
> >
> >Yesterday I pulled my radiator to have it rebuilt, and I made an unhappy
> >discovery.
> >
> >The front timing cover on the 1275 engine is cracked where the breather can
> >attaches to it. I can wiggle the breather and watch the crack open and
> >close. (This might explain why my oil leaking has gotten so bad lately.)
> >
> >How much trouble an I in? It looks like a LOT of work to get that timing
> >cover off. Do I have to pull the engine? Can something like this be welded
> >closed, or do I have to find a replacement? I am tempted to try cleaning it
> >up and applying a generous fillet of JB Weld around the breather. This is a
> >driver, not a show car.
> >
> >Any and all opinions and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> >Thanks in advance. You have always come through for me!
> >
> >Tom Zuchowski
> >'61 Bugeye
> >Clemmons, NC
>
>
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
> Senior Editor, Molecular Vision
> http://www.molvis.org/molvis
> "Seeing the Future in a Very Tiny Way"
>
>
Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|__
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http://students.washington.edu/~ulix/ '67 Sprite '74 X1/9
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