But the voltage stabilizer doesn't reverse the current, it only controls the
"rate" at which it flows, and even if it's hooked up backwards, or is
eliminated altogether, that shouldn't change the way the needle on the gauge
deflects; it will only make the needle "jump" into position, rather than
moving up slowly.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: theskinny@excite.com <theskinny@excite.com>
To: millerls@ado13.com <millerls@ado13.com>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Gauge
>Larry:
>Just realized you are having problems with both your fuel gauge and temp
>guage. My money is betting that you do not have them wired through the
>voltage stabalizer. It is a little box, about 1"x1/2"x1/2" mounted to the
>back side of the dash board right above the radio console, with a green
>supply wire, and two Light Green with dark green trace wires coming off of
>it. The LGG wires supply the reduced voltage to your fuel gauge and temp
>guage. The voltage stabalizer is necessary, because in full charge
>conditions, the alternator/dynamo is supplying the electrical system with
up
>to 16 volts, which would cause the electrical gauges to read higher (hotter
>or fuller) than when the voltage is under drain, say when honking the
horns,
>or using the highbeams. The solution is to supply a stabalized 8 volts at
>all times, so the gauges would not be affected by changes in voltage. Hope
>this is it. Good luck.
>
>David Riker
>
>
>
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