Toby,
Are we taking your 1500 here? I just did this on a 1500 and I had to remove
everything on that side of the engine except the fuel pump. Even then it
will barely slip through, but will make it through with the pinion pointing
up. The 1275 is much easier.
Before you buy a new one, consider replacing the brushes. That was my
problem, I purchased brushes from my local auto parts chain for six dollars
and had it repaired in under 30 minutes. There are two pairs of brushes and
found only one was worn down enough to require replacement. When you have
it out of the car push in on the pinion and test again. Mine would spin
like mad after taking up that 1/16 end float, just enough to make contact
with the other two brushes.
Gerard
At 2:13 PM -0800 12/28/99, R. Toby Atwater wrote:
>My Haynes manual tells me that the distributor needs to come out before my
>starter can be removed.
>
>The Factory Workshop just says something like "some components may need to
>be removed before removal of the starter can be attempted".
>
>My dad is telling me the oil filter is going to have to come out for the
>starter to slip forward enough to get it outa there. Santa left me a spin-on
>oil filter conversion of the M0SS kind so it may be the right time too swap
>it in.
>
>Any help is always appreciated...
>
>Toby
>
>P.S. I know my starter is bad. I have checked all connections, all grounds
>and even jumped the starter directly to the battery with a huge set of
>jumper cables. Its dead. But I found a replacement one at www.carparts.com
>for $35 with tax and shipping and it comes with a slyoinid. Moss wants
>something like $90 and Pep Boys wants $120 or something like that.
>
>Thanks,
G G Gerard Chateauvieux
E A
R R pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com
A A
R G Pixelsmith on Duty
D E
S http://www.gerardsgarage.com
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