Bill - Gotta go with Allen here. My Leyland Factory Manual for the 78
says 10 BTDC.
Larry
At this exact moment in time 8/3/00 10:34, Ajhsys@aol.com made the
profound statement:
>In a message dated 8/2/00 8:17:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>wmgilroy@lucent.com writes:
>
><< I got my 77 Midget running today but I am having some problems as
> usual. The car starts when hot, but is very hard to start when
> cold. A bit of gas in the carb helps greatly. >>
>
>Sounds like the choke isn't closing. You might want to consider a manual
>choke conversion. They are a lot more reliable.
>
><< I cannot get
> the car to idle below 1200 RPM. When at an idle the RPM hunts
> around by maybe 200 RPM. The timing also fluctuates with the
> RPM. >>
>
>The timing is fluctuating because the vacuum advance is advancing as the
>RPMs
>go up. (Or is that RsPM? Grammar nazis, please help.)
>
><< Oil pressure is 45 PSI while hot at an idle and 65 PSI
> when cold at an idle. >>
>
>That's real good. After my '77 heats up completely the pressure drops down
>to less than 30 at a slow idle, and about 50 at 3500 RPM.
>
><< I have not pulled the plugs yet to
> see what they look like. The point gap is set to .015 and
> the timing is set to 2 degrees ATDC as per the shop manual. >>
>
>Hmmmm. My shop manual (Haynes, I think I used!) says 10 deg BTDC. I have
>it
>set at about 8 deg BTDC. Are you sure about that timing setting? Maybe the
>earlier dizzy would make the setting different, but that wouldn't be in the
>manual. I will check my owners manual tomorrow when I pick up my car. (Not
>"pick up" but when I get my car. Gimme a break!) The 2 deg ATDC setting
>might be for static timing the dizzy. If you need it, I'll bring my timing
>light on Saturday and we can check it. Let me know.
>
><< I am running an earlier mechanical dizzy if that matters. Not
> sure about all the vacuum lines (no wise comments). The
> points, wire, and dizzy cap have less than 300 miles on them.
> Fuel pump works great and I put in 2 filters, one before the
> pump and one at the carb. The manufacturer of the pump recommends
> one before the pump. It will be a PITA to change on the road
> side when it clogs. >>
>
>If you think it is a vacuum leak, just buy a roll of vacuum hose and replace
>each one on the car. My car was desmogged so I only have the one vacuum
>line
>to the dizzy advance. You probably have more. Replace them one at a time
>so
>you don't get confused. I did that on my Mitsubishi. (It made no
>difference
>at all. Then I replaced the O2 sensor and fixed the problem.)
>
>I have one filter after my fuel pump. The mechanical fuel pumps on the 1500
>Midgets are much more reliable than the electrical ones on earlier cars.
>Plus, you don't have to put up with all that clicking noise.
>
>Keep on pluggin' Bill. I'll see you Saturday!
>
>Allen Hefner
>SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
>'77 Midget
>'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
System Administrator/Manager
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104
Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
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