OK. I seem to remember someone once saying that they had a tool for
removing the rheostat from the dash. I tried to remove mine for an hour
yesterday, but that sucker is on there really tight. Almost scratched the
dash three times. Any recommendations on how to make a tool, or can I
borrow someone's as I've determined my rheostat to be the cause for no dash
lights. A good cleaning should solve the problem.
In the meantime, I hooked a jumper from the headlight switch to the tach
bulb so that I have dash lights. No more flashlight for night driving.
<grin> I also solved the issue of no brights for the headlights. Turns out
there was a DPO electrical connection by the left front fender, in a spot I
never would have thought there were electrical connections. After removing
3.28 miles of old electrical tape, found the connections were really
corroded, Cleaned everything with electric motor cleaner and a 1/4" wire
brush on my dremel (perfect for inside the female bullet connectors). A
little electrician's conducive jelly and the brights now work really well.
While I was there, I rewired the regular lights (the connectors were gone,
everything was twisted together) and now my headlights are brighter than the
Z's. Still need to fix the rest of the butchering that was there.
Also picked up a "WEN" brand orbital buffing machine. Together with Meguars
(sp?) cleaner wax and a good wash, and the paint REALLY came to life.
Definitely a worthwhile investment (only $50 at AutoZone, an impulse buy
that I'm happy with.)
I'm planning on switching in Paul's 3.7 diffy this week. Maybe tomorrow if
the gaskets come in time. Any recommendations as to the best method for
removal and installation? Which seals are worth changing. I bought every
oil seal, gasket, and o ring in the Moss catalog that had anything to do
with the rear axle, but I'm not sure which ones are worth replacing?
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Graz
'78 Midget
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