Frank,
I too had a soft pedal that required two pumps... no matter how many times I
bleed the system, rebuilt the MC and all the wheel cylinders with Lockheed
OEM parts/seals. You may recall me asking for help.
My problem was pitting in the MC bore... "Gee it felt smooth when I stuck my
finger in it", but inspection with a flex light sure proved me wrong. After
I sent it out and had Joe at "Sierra Specialty Automotive" in Quincy CA. put
a brass sleeve in it... my pedal was hard as a rock for the six months I
drove it till it was parked for the overhaul.
And regarding my question about "Where to find" these wheel bearing spacer
shims (Chris, Daniel, Paul, Dave, David and Crash)... Have a little patience
and Get off my back!
I know how to use the archive listings and I already made my decision on
what to do, I was merely looking for a source of the parts which I didn't
find in the archives. Just because you're setting your cars up a different
way doesn't mean it's the only way. I know that I don't have to use the
bearing spacer with the tapered roller bearing, but I was advised to by 3 or
4 H & F production racers and Mini Mania (not that I think they are always
correct either) because I need the extra support because I'm running a 7"
wheel w/ a 50 series tire.
Taking every advantage to keep my stub axels from breaking,
-Drew
<< I'm sure this has been mentioned before, but where can I get shims to
fit
the wheel bearing in the front hubs?
Even though I'm converting to roller bearing... I was advised (for added
strength and support) to continue using the factory center spacer, between
the inner and outer bearings.
Thanks,
-Drew in San Jose >>
-----Original Message-----
From Ajhsys at aol.com [mailto:Ajhsys@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 8:41 AM
To: spritenut@Exit109.com
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Lot rot (brake systems)
In a message dated 8/26/00 7:52:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
spritenut@Exit109.com writes:
<< Or is it the quality of todays parts?
I learned to always specify Lcokheed OEM kits or cylinders.
But out of the 3, 1 works great, 2 need a pump, all have Lockheed parts
and all are relativly new >>
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
An interesting analysis, Frank. My '77 Midget has what is probably closest
to the brake system in Pieces. Dual brake lines, etc. I have braided brake
hoses installed, a rebuilt MC from Advance, I rebuilt my calipers with
Lockheed parts, replaced the rear cylinders and all the brake pipes with
new,
and I use Castrol GT LMA.
My pedal does not need to be pumped. It goes down about half way and then
the brakes work. It certainly doesn't feel like the power brakes on my
Mitsubishi (which take a little getting used to after driving the Midget all
weekend!), but they aren't really what I would call spongy. I autocross the
car and they are certainly adequate, and on the road I feel safe knowing the
car only weighs about 1900 lbs.
After I installed all the brake parts, the pedal was a bit spongy. I took
the car for inspection and the shop re-bled the brakes, which made a
noticeable difference. I know that you know how to bleed brakes, so I am
not
saying that is the problem, but if you have to pump the brake pedal, it
sounds like air in the system. Pumping the pedal brakes up the air bubble
into little bubbles (it makes the fluid foam a bit) and that gives you more
feel to the pedal.
At least, that's my guess.
Allen Hefner
SCCA Philly Region Rally Steward
'77 Midget
'92 Mitsubishi Expo LRV Sport
|