In woodworking it is suggested that steel wool leaves minute pieces of steel
behind, making the finish rough. It is better to use Skotchbrite or 3M
Sandblaster sponges to do this.
Good luck!
"Graziano, Michael" wrote:
> All,
>
> First off, thanks a million for all the recommendations on the body work
> questions last week. While I ran out of time last weekend, I plan on
> getting to it within the next two weeks. As usual, my weekends suck, so I
> might take yet another day off from work. All this and I'll probably still
> have to carry over 2 weeks of vacation to next year.
>
> One thing I'm going to do this week after work is prepare my extra trunk lid
> for repainting. It's currently painted the wrong color green, but in
> perfect condition otherwise. SInce I'm not crazy about the look of a
> luggage rack, but recognize it's usefulness in certain situations, I
> picked up this extra boot lid complete with luggage rack. Now, when I need
> the rack, I can just remove one lid and bolt on the other.
>
> What I've gathered so far is that I need to scuff the old paint with a 320
> grit wet/dry paper. Then apply the first coat of spray can paint (in
> correct color). Allow to dry (completely?), sand with 400 grip wet dry to
> get smoothe, and apply a second coat. SHould this step be done with 600
> grit or 000 steel wool instead of the 400grit? ANd how much time should I
> allow for drying between coats? I have a can of Prep All to apply just
> before I actually spray on the paint. Will 2 coats be enough?
>
> FYI: The spray cans are from Tower Paint. The color matches perfect and
> the cans came with very nice nozzles, as well. I don't know if they carry
> MG colors, but they carried my Jag color.
>
> Any other bits of advice?
>
> Many many thanks in advance.
>
> Michael
>
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