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Re: front suspension rebuilding...

To: "Jeffrey H. Boatright" <jboatri@emory.edu>
Subject: Re: front suspension rebuilding...
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 11:18:45 -0700
Cc: Toby Atwater <Toby@intri-plex.com>, spridgets@autox.team.net
Organization: WFO Racing
References: <71DC5536B8ACD211BA8D00A0C9DDFB9E425365@EXCHANGE> <a043101010003cb7c6cb1@[216.227.33.181]>
Jeff & Fellow Spridgeteers,

The site Jeff sent is full of great information.  Just drop off the 
"frontend.htm"
portion and it takes you to the gentleman's index page.  There are a number of
good, well written technical articles.

WFO Herb
Keep the sticky side down!

"Jeffrey H. Boatright" wrote:

> One of the better diagnostics I've found on the web is at:
>
> http://yallara.cs.rmit.edu.au:8080/~mg/cars/goblins/tech/frontend.htm
>
>  From that site, here is the front-end test:
>
>                                                             Spridget
> Front Suspension
>
>
> Gillspeed
>
> Spridgets are enjoyable to drive for a number of reasons, but one of
> the foremost must be the very nimble steering. Nimble that is if you
> have maintained it well, dastardly and twitchy if you or
> the DPO have let it go too long between visits to the workshop.
> Below, I have outlined a series of inspections to do on your car to
> decide if it is time for new suspension or brake components.
>
> King Pin End Float
>         With the jack under the jacking point, lift one front wheel
> clear of the ground. Try and move the front wheel up and down, if
> there is any up and down movement and some "knocking"
>         noises, you have king pin end float. Remove king pin shims to tighten.
>
> Lower Outer Wishbone Pin
>         Place a chassis stand or jack under the lower wishbone and
> raise one front wheel clear of the ground. Again try and move the
> front wheel up and down, if the kingpin moves up and down
>         relative to the wishbone, the "lower outer" pin and wishbone
> bushes will be worn. It is not uncommon for the "lower outer" pin to
> waer through the top of the wishbone! If you remove
>         the allow plug and grease nipple, the extent of the wear will
> be obvious. This wear is dangerous and needs urgent attention!.
>
>         A less common problem is loose or missing cotter pins. Up and
> down movement of the kingpin relative to the wishbone will again be
> present because the "eye" of the kingpin has has
>         been worn oversize.
>
> King Pin Bushes and Wheel Bearings
>         Hold the wheel top and bottom and rock the wheel in and out.
> Any movement suggests worn king pin bushes or worn wheel bearings.
>
>         Have an assistant apply the brakes hard. If the movement
> dissappears the wheel bearings are worn, if not, it's king pin wear.
> If you can see no movement in the lower kingpin bush,
>         check the "upper outer" shock absorber arm bushes for wear.
> Also, while the brakes are still applied try and rotate the wheel
> backwards and forwards. If you get a "floppy" sort of
>         rotation movement, this confirms your "upper outer" shock
> absorber bushes are worn, and even worse, your shock absorber lever
> arm may be lose on its shaft. Both of these items need
>         immediate attention, especially if your car is twitchy under brakes.
>
> Ties Rods and Steering Rack
>         Remove the road wheel and rotate the outer tie rod end (i.e.
> tilt the rod end fore/aft). It should be stiff but not notchy. There
> should be no in and out movement.
>
>         Check the rubber gaitors on the steering rack and replace
> these if there are any splits or cracks. If you don't, you will soon
> be up for a replacement steering rack!
>
> Brakes
>         Check the front rubber brake hose. They often run on the tyre
> when steering is on full lock. Check brakes for wear, shock absorber
> bolts for tightness, also check for fore/aft movement
>         of the shock absorber arm, especially, on the inside end.
> Check the metal hydraulic brake line on the chassis for kinks. Look
> for leaking hydraulic joints and cylinders.
>
>         Check wheel studs for stetching, check steering arm to kingpin
> bolts for tightness.
>
> Front Shock Absorbers
>         Refit wheel, drop car back onto the road and bounce the front
> muduard. If it bounces freely, reco shocks are in order.
>
> Gillspeed is a specialist Spridget and MGB supplier (new and 2nd hand
> parts) and workshop here in Victoria. Bob Gill started Gillspeed back
> in 1974 and offers overnight service
> throughout Australia.
> --
>
> __________________________________________________
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
> Assistant Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA
> Senior Editor, Molecular Vision
> <http://www.molvis.org/molvis>
> <mailto: jboatri@emory.edu>


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