The first test drive keeps getting further and further away. The list of small
jobs to finish to make the car roadworthy is still kinda long. Funny though, I
remember when I used to drive a Bugeye as my only transportation. Back then I
would drive it with all kinds of things NOT working on the car. As long as it
would go when I stepped on the gas and stop when I stepped on the brake. Ah,
the good old days.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
WFO Herb wrote:
> Mike,
>
> Congratulations! You only have a few things to change/replace/repair before
> you and the car are road worthy. Not bad. Keep in mind all that you have
> done to get this far. Amazing isn't it. First test drive is very close.
>
> Way to go!
>
> Herb
>
> Mike Maclean wrote:
>
> > Of the few days I get to work on my car to try to finish the
> > restoration, today was a good one and it was a bad one. It seems that
> > the more I try to get the car finished, the longer the list of things to
> > do to finish it becomes. Today I spent the afternoon trying to finish
> > up the wiring under the dash. I finally got the turn signal indicator
> > light to work and now all the instruments are illuminated when the dash
> > lights are turned on. Still can't figure out why the high beam
> > indicator light won't work. I'll get it though.
> > More perplexing is my starter pull cable. I went to start the car
> > by truning the key and pulling the starter knob and it broke off right
> > where it goes into the connector on the starter
> > spring loaded switch under the bonnet. When I went to look at it under
> > the hood, it was discolored and very hot to the touch! I guess I was
> > grounding through it. I don't see how. The engine is grounded to the
> > body with a strap connected to a bolt on the bell housing and
> > frame of the car. The car would run fine after the cable was removed.
> > I had been float gharging the car from the negative terminal to a head
> > stud to keep the battery charged. Could this have completed a circuit
> > through the starter wiring somehow?
> > I also tried to make the doors close properly by shimming the catch
> > on the "B" pillar and got the passenger door to operate perfectly. Not
> > so lucky with the driver's side. Shimmed properly and couldn't get the
> > door to stay closed. The mechanism mounted on the door would not engage
> > the catch on the "B" pillar. When I inspected both sides for a
> > comparison, the pin that snaps over the door jamb catch, in the driver's
> > door did not protrude far enough into the hole to "catch" the door jamb
> > catch. Now I have to get a new door mechanism with the chrome knob to
> > get the driver's door to stay closed before I try to test drive this
> > car.
> > The more work I do on this car the more work I make for myself.
> > Looking for the light at the end of the tunnel, being a railroad
> > engineer, I'm afraid it's a traim.
> > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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