Yes, you bring back fond memories. In 1972 I owned a 59 TR-3, but the
brakes worked, which didn't help much when I was t-boned by a '57 Plymouth
while I was making an illegal left turn. Accident was determined to be my
fault as a "Right Turn Only" sign was posted.
Funny thing though, 6 months later it was legal to make a left turn there
and the sign was gone.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
Larry Cogan wrote:
> Mike: In my old days I was less fussy.....the trip was still a go if
> I could pump the brake pedal fast enough to get a little pressure for
> a stop. Of course that was a Tr*****h.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Maclean <macleans@earthlink.net>
> To: <froggi@cdsnet.net>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 11:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Grounded!
>
> > The first test drive keeps getting further and further away. The
> list of small
> > jobs to finish to make the car roadworthy is still kinda long.
> Funny though, I
> > remember when I used to drive a Bugeye as my only transportation.
> Back then I
> > would drive it with all kinds of things NOT working on the car. As
> long as it
> > would go when I stepped on the gas and stop when I stepped on the
> brake. Ah,
> > the good old days.
> > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
> >
> > WFO Herb wrote:
> >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > Congratulations! You only have a few things to
> change/replace/repair before
> > > you and the car are road worthy. Not bad. Keep in mind all that
> you have
> > > done to get this far. Amazing isn't it. First test drive is very
> close.
> > >
> > > Way to go!
> > >
> > > Herb
> > >
> > > Mike Maclean wrote:
> > >
> > > > Of the few days I get to work on my car to try to finish the
> > > > restoration, today was a good one and it was a bad one. It
> seems that
> > > > the more I try to get the car finished, the longer the list of
> things to
> > > > do to finish it becomes. Today I spent the afternoon trying to
> finish
> > > > up the wiring under the dash. I finally got the turn signal
> indicator
> > > > light to work and now all the instruments are illuminated when
> the dash
> > > > lights are turned on. Still can't figure out why the high beam
> > > > indicator light won't work. I'll get it though.
> > > > More perplexing is my starter pull cable. I went to start
> the car
> > > > by truning the key and pulling the starter knob and it broke off
> right
> > > > where it goes into the connector on the starter
> > > > spring loaded switch under the bonnet. When I went to look at
> it under
> > > > the hood, it was discolored and very hot to the touch! I guess
> I was
> > > > grounding through it. I don't see how. The engine is grounded
> to the
> > > > body with a strap connected to a bolt on the bell housing and
> > > > frame of the car. The car would run fine after the cable was
> removed.
> > > > I had been float gharging the car from the negative terminal to
> a head
> > > > stud to keep the battery charged. Could this have completed a
> circuit
> > > > through the starter wiring somehow?
> > > > I also tried to make the doors close properly by shimming
> the catch
> > > > on the "B" pillar and got the passenger door to operate
> perfectly. Not
> > > > so lucky with the driver's side. Shimmed properly and couldn't
> get the
> > > > door to stay closed. The mechanism mounted on the door would
> not engage
> > > > the catch on the "B" pillar. When I inspected both sides for a
> > > > comparison, the pin that snaps over the door jamb catch, in the
> driver's
> > > > door did not protrude far enough into the hole to "catch" the
> door jamb
> > > > catch. Now I have to get a new door mechanism with the chrome
> knob to
> > > > get the driver's door to stay closed before I try to test drive
> this
> > > > car.
> > > > The more work I do on this car the more work I make for
> myself.
> > > > Looking for the light at the end of the tunnel, being a railroad
> > > > engineer, I'm afraid it's a traim.
> > > > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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