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Re: Huh?

To: Doug Ingram <dougi@home.com>
Subject: Re: Huh?
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 18:56:57 -0800
Cc: Spridget List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
References: <3A7FA0CD.B81B6548@earthlink.net> <004601c0909e$1faae5a0$54124518@gvob1.bc.wave.home.com>
Yeah, I guess your right.  How about you drive down here and I'll pay you $500
if you can figure out what's wrong.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite

Doug Ingram wrote:

> Ok Mike, It's time for you to give up on this one. There's nothing that's
> going to solve this problem, and the only solution I can see is that I drive
> down there with my trailer and take this lemon of a Sprite off your hands.
> I'm sure we can work out a fair price, say around $500. Salvage value is all
> it's worth, don't you think.
>
> ;)
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC
> 1958 Sprite  (AN5L/636)
> 1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Maclean <macleans@earthlink.net>
> To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 10:59 PM
> Subject: Huh?
>
> > Today I received a new (repro) starter switch for the Bugeye.  I was
> > hoping that this would fix my problem with the overheating starter pull
> > wire.  I had already rebuilt the starter, so I installed it tonight and
> > pulled the starter pull knob and watched the wire again.  Well, guess
> > what boys and girls, it STILL gets hot!  The only component left in the
> > starter circuit that is still in question is the negative cable from the
> > battery to the starter switch.  I bought the cable from Norman Nock.  I
> > was looking for a helmet head battery cable for the negative side.
> > After many calls, Norman's company in Stockton, California said they had
> > a repro.  I ordered it and waited.  When it arrived the darn thing was
> > too short.  I went to the welding supply store and bought a length of
> > matching type cable. I  added about 8 inches to the helmet head cable by
> > intertwining the separate wires beneath the outer sheath and sweat
> > soldering the whole mess together.  I then just wrapped electrical tape
> > around the area.  Not exactly concours, but I thought it would work
> > until I could find a longer replacement.
> >      Does the resistance generated by this lousy connection have
> > something to do with the problem?  The joint is between the battery and
> > the starter switch, the heat generated in the pull wire is on the other
> > side of the joint.  Does that matter?
> >      Unless someone tells me that my electrical surgery should not cause
> > a problem, tomorrow I will get a generic battery cable of sufficient
> > length and try again.  There isn't much left to replace.
> > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite

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