Hi, Gerard-
And AFTER you back the idle screws fully
clear of thier platforms with the interconnect loosened, screw them back
in 'til they just touch their platforms and
from that position, further in 1& 1/2 turns
as a basic setting, before beginning
tuning.
Any further adjustment of the idle screws
is done on an invidual basis with a flowmeter of some sort after that,
until
the interconnect is hooked back up.
What I DID forget to mention is that I
clean up the inside/outside of the bells
and top off the oil in the dampers as well
before I begin! This is always a good idea
before commencing tuning.
I've never picked up different carbs. of
the same type off of junked cars or from a
junkyard or anything like that. And I
would not pick up a set off one junked
car either as I consider them precision
instruments to begin with and I've no
idea what their history is in terms of
care and thus, internal condition as
in corrosion within internal channels, etc.
Even on my Bugeye with it's 1098 and
capped emissions HS2's, I checked out
rise and fall rate during inspection when
we did the requisite pre-buy compression
and leakdown checks. (They were the same!).
All my work has been done on matched
sets as they came in the car from the
manufacturer or OEM aftermarket supplier
in the case of an upgrade.
So, come to think of it, I have never run into the situation
where
the airvalves moved differently when
the inside of the bells or the airvalves
were clean, and the screws that hold
the bells to the carb. were tightened
evenly. So, the valves always "fell"
equally over time when raised and released and opened simultaneously
during tuning as well.
I suppose if I did run into this problem,
the first thing I would do is purchase a
set of new springs of the correct spec.
from Sports 'n' Classics up the street
to begin with. If I still ran into the problem
of unequal movement of the valves up
the bore during tuning, I'd then, like
you, go to different weights of oil in the
dampers to compensate. You'd know
which carb. to match to which carb. as
there is a movement "rate" test of the
valves to perform in this case. I would
have to make a call to Joe Curto to get
the numbers on this one, though John
at Sport'n'Classics might know.
Of course, I might also suspect low
vacuum from one or more cylinders
on one side as well. But I am always
running compression and leak down
tests on my engines, usually twice a
year, anyway. So I'd no about this before
tuning the carbs. most likely, in any event.
Without opening the book (which I will
anyway over the next few days, if only
for the hell of it if for no other reason!)
all I can say is that when I am through, the airvalves move equally
when
the throttle cable is pulled and they stay
that way all the way up the bore to the
fully open position as max. rpm is
attained. At the same time, airflow
according to the Unisyn is balanced
at idle.
So there you have it but as I said, I'll
be getting back into the book anyway
over the next few days, anyway. Have
to familiarize myself with the HIF model
in any event considering the planned
conversion over to a single 1.75.
Gonna miss the balancing act!! :)
Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd)
'60 Frog
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