Mike MacLean wrote:
> Ever since I finished the restoration on the Bugeye, the clutch has been
> about the same. You have to push it all the way in to completely
> disengage the trans
Mike
Assuming the hydraulics are fine and bled, check the slave pushrod.
Different (brand) clutch components over the years are making the
"stock" pushrod a custom piece.
Try this down and dirty trick.....
Find a thin 5/16 nyloc nut, pop out the pushrod on the slave, stick the
nut inside the slave at the end of the rod. Now see if the clutch is any
different.
If not, it's a hydraulic problem, if it is better, now you have to make
sure the added length of the rod isn't over throwing the clutch.
I make most of my clutch pins from junk in the garage.
Take a long 3/8 bolt (old shock bolts work great) cut the head off, heat
it cherry red, beat a flat end on one side and drill a 5/16" hole in it
for the pin. grind down the other end until it is the correct length.
If your existing rod is say 2 11/16" long, start with a 3" rod and look
inside the inspection hole to make sure the t/o bearing is not riding
the p/plate. You should have about an 1/8" space between them.
If you feel creative, you can make an adjustable pushrod out of a union
but and some all thread.
I have never felt creative enough to do this, I just hammer out what I
need when i need it.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Back up to too many sprites again.
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut/
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