Jethro,
You are right, it is a regular discussion. My opinion is that 175/70 is the
widest tire that should be run on the street witht he RO-Style wheels. I
disagree with Derf in that the wire wheels are only 4", whereas the steelies
are 4.5" according to page 110 of Terry Horler's book "Original Sprite &
Midget".
I run 185/60R13 race rubber on Vega rims for autocrossing. If I would get
around to installing a panhard bar, they probably would not rub at all, but
I haven't and they do seem to rub occasionally on hard cornering.
As far as the dash layout, from left to right in a 73 you should have:
1. Heater knob: This simply controls the damper and regulates how much air
flows through the heater core.
2. Heater fan switch:
3. Tachometer
4. Dual Gauge: Upper half is oil pressure, lower half is water temperature.
Both mechanical and expensive to replace if you screw up the capillary tube
on the temp.
5. Brake test switch: Does not really do much. It has a switch and a lamp in
it; the lamp should go on when you press the switch if the wiring to the
brake union is in place. It will also light if the shuttle in that union
moves, indicating that there is an inbalance between the two brake circuits
(which you probably had noticed already as you drove right through that
intersection when the brakes didn't work).
6. Fuel gauge: There have been several generations of these. The tank,
sender, and gauge should all be of the same version to work correctly.
7. Speedometer: Also has the odometer and trip odometer, just like a real
car. The reset for the trip is under the edge of the dash and consists of a
knob which must be rotated to rest it.
8. Headlight switch: Yes, the two rocker switches appear backwards to us
goofy murcans, but that is the way they are supposed to be. Two-stage for
parking lights then headlights. Dimmer switch is on the turnsignal stalk.
9. Choke: Yup, manual choke. When adjusted correctly, the beginning of the
pull merely raises the idle speed, followed by pulling down the jets in the
carbs to richen the mixture. Usuall pulled most of the way out to start the
engine, then pushed most of the way back in to hold the revs up until the
engine is warm. A slight clockwise turn locks it in place.
10. High Beam indicator: The blue light.
11. Ignition light: If the charging system is stock, this red light will
come on when you turn on the key and go off when the engine is running,
indicating that it thinks the alternator is working. It is not unusual for
it to flicker when idling under 1000rpm.
On the console you have the Hazard switch: Turns on the four-way flashers.
The turnsignal wiring goes through this switch and using this switch for the
first time in a long while can cause you to lose the turnsignals.
Wipers are on the stalk opposite the turnsignals and have two speeds.
Hope this helps
David Lieb
1972 Blue
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