The big resistor is there to stop the rectifier diodes in the alternator
frying/self destructing when the switch is thrown with the engine running at an
rpm above the alternator kick-in rpm. The resistor is a biggy.
In a message dated 15/10/2008 17:52:32 GMT Daylight Time,
peter@nosimport.com writes:
Dave,
I'm not an engineer, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last
night (though I probably should have) but there is a potential
problem shutting of the power to an alternator with regard to diodes and
such.
I worked on a guy's race car with alternator and was
shocked, literally, because he had the wrong switch.
This link, by no means an endorsement, addresses the
alternator issue. Maybe you can understand it better than I.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464
Peter C
====
At 11:38 AM 10/15/2008, Dave G. wrote:
>That's not the question I asked...
>
>I can use a simple circuit employing a double pole industrial 12V
>relay switched
>by a single pole switch to cut both lines at once or use an
>off-the-shelf purpose
>built switch.
>
>My serious question is "If I cut power from the battery *and* I cut
>power from the
>alternator" what's left --- doesn't that remove all power from all
>electrical circuits
>in the vehicle????
>
>On 15 Oct 2008 at 12:24, Weslake1330@aol.com wrote:
>
> >> And is opening the circuit the lead from the alternator live or ground
> >> and if it's live how is this thrown on the same switch as the battery
> >> ground?
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