Jim,
That won't work.
You have to work out a SYSTEM, not just throw pieces at it.
IF you want to vent to atmosphere, you should plan on running at least
two 3/8" hoses from a vent like the timing chain cover, the pipe on
the valve cover, or an added vent to the blank cover where the
mechanical fuel pump could have mounted, UP OVER the top of the
engine, then down into the slipstream. At that point, you would PLUG
the Y-pipe.
IF you want to use the Y-pipe, then you have to restrict the venting
of the crankcase or you will effectively have a significant vacuum
leak. Look at the SYSTEM used with the Y-pipe. It used the Y-pipe to
apply vacuum to a crankcase that was ONLY vented via the METERED
orifice from the valve cover to the charcoal cannister. This
restricted the amount of air/fumes that would go through the Y-pipe,
thus creating a small vacuum in the crankcase. This is a good thing.
Your proposal would dispose of the metered orifice in favor of a
quarter-inch hole. Any chance of achieving any kind of a vacuum in the
crankcase? Heck no. What would this do to your mixture?
Did you read the page from Barney Gaylord?
David Lieb
On Fri, Mar 20, 2009 at 10:11 AM, Jim F. <jimndi@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> I've been advised about crankcase venting on my 1970 vintage 1275
> (12/DA/H29827) . I believe this year was before the air pump emissions junk
> cluttered everything up. My plan is to run a vented oil cap (Oil cap has a
1/4
> inch hole on the inside and air passes freely so I think this is an oem
vented
> cap?. I will connect the carb "Y" pipe to the Timing cover canister vent on
> the front of the engine. Is this sufficient crankcase ventilation? My
biggest
> concern is crankcase pressure pushing oil through the rear main seal.This is
a
> freshly rebuilt engine. I've toyed with the idea of drilling out a non
vented
> oil fill cap and installing a rubber grommet and pcv valve for increased
> venting. Are my concerns unfounded? Thanks.
>
>
> 1960 Bugeye
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