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[Spridgets] Cooling fan thoughts

To: "spridgets@autox.team.net" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] Cooling fan thoughts
From: crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2019 17:59:49 -0500
Cc: "EasternOshitGroup@groups.io" <EasternOshitGroup@groups.io>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
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First , thank everyone for positive input on this.I am installing the temp. 
gauge sender in the cylinder head.   Years ago I had a 1940 Chevy coupe 
street rod.   It had a Flexilite brand adjustable temperature sensor to turn 
on the cooling fan.  It's sensor bulb went into a rubber arc'd piece that 
allowed the sensor to be placed into coolant where a radiator hose slpped onto 
a hose nipple.   I had it located at the thermostat housing.   I'm leaning 
towards something like that.   Most modern temperature sensors are designed 
for 195° as an initial "on" temperature.   Also most I could find at the 
local junk yard are going to be very modern and the bung they screw into would 
be a plastic radiator.   I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.  If I 
had a decent temp switch ( 180° or lower?) And a copper/ brass bung , I could 
solder it into the radiator end tank.  Or possibly into the lower coolant 
cross tube .   Yes I know the hotter coolant is on top not on the bottom.  
 Possibly on top of the thermostat housing , although the rear of head heater 
tap is going to be a bypass up to the thermostat housing which may make that 
casting a bit "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount.  Those cast iron cross 
flow thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather thin in the domed area 
over the thermostat.   I'd use an alloy one of I had one that pointed the 
right way....  As of this writing I'm committed to using the cast iron one and 
brazing a 90° fitting on top for the coolant bypass back to the heater port on 
the head.  I'd love to do it with AN fittings and cool braided hose , 
considering the "we tight" budget , that's not happening.   My radiator guy 
is 1.5 hours away and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he must have 500+ 
junk radiator that he uses for pieces to modify radiators for customers) but 
too far to drive on a gamble.  I could shop old foreign cars in our local 
pick-N-pull ( our "breakers") and test them for what temperature they make 
contact to close a circut.  Somewhere I remember the old VW's ( rabbit & 
Scirocco days) had pretty reliable sending units.   I need to do some 
research looking into early electric cooling fan system operating temperatures 
or pressures ( higher pressure systems traditionally were higher temperature 
systems from past experiences).More to come as I get more input.ChuckSent from 
my LG Mobile
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">First , thank everyone for 
positive input on this.</div><div dir="auto">I am installing the temp. gauge 
sender in the cylinder head.&nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">Years ago I had 
a 1940 Chevy coupe street rod.&nbsp; &nbsp;It had a Flexilite brand adjustable 
temperature sensor to turn on the cooling fan.&nbsp; It's sensor bulb went into 
a rubber arc'd piece that allowed the sensor to be placed into coolant where a 
radiator hose slpped onto a hose nipple.&nbsp; &nbsp;I had it located at the 
thermostat housing.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm leaning towards something like that.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;Most modern temperature sensors are designed for 195° as an initial "on" 
temperature.&nbsp; &nbsp;Also most I could find at the local junk yard are 
going to be very modern and the bung they screw into would be a plastic 
radiator.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm using a stock 1275 cross flow radiator.&nbsp; If I 
had a decent temp switch ( 180° or lower?) And a copper/ brass bung , I could 
solder it into the radiator end tank.&nbsp; Or possibly into the lower coolant 
cross tube .&nbsp; &nbsp;Yes I know the hotter coolant is on top not on the 
bottom.&nbsp; &nbsp;Possibly on top of the thermostat housing , although the 
rear of head heater tap is going to be a bypass up to the thermostat housing 
which may make that casting a bit "busy" for a thermostatic switch mount.&nbsp; 
Those cast iron cross flow thermostat housings are awfully heavy and rather 
thin in the domed area over the thermostat.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'd use an alloy one of 
I had one that pointed the right way....&nbsp; As of this writing I'm committed 
to using the cast iron one and brazing a 90° fitting on top for the coolant 
bypass back to the heater port on the head.&nbsp; I'd love to do it with AN 
fittings and cool braided hose , considering the "we tight" budget , that's not 
happening.&nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">My radiator guy is 1.5 hours away 
and he might have a copper or brass bung ( he must have 500+ junk radiator that 
he uses for pieces to modify radiators for customers) but too far to drive on a 
gamble.&nbsp; I could shop old foreign cars in our local pick-N-pull ( our 
"breakers") and test them for what temperature they make contact to close a 
circut.&nbsp; Somewhere I remember the old VW's ( rabbit &amp; Scirocco days) 
had pretty reliable sending units.&nbsp; &nbsp;I need to do some research 
looking into early electric cooling fan system operating temperatures or 
pressures ( higher pressure systems traditionally were higher temperature 
systems from past experiences).</div><div dir="auto">More to come as I get more 
input.</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div><div dir="auto" 
style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>


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