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Try brazing up one side of the washer and file/grind the brass to about the
thickness you need.Or!  Grind down 1 side of the washer to get the washer to
lay flat.OR!Add or subtract to the manifold or header flange to get them to
match.Now I wanna know the final "fix" on this one!ChuckSent from my LG
Mobile------ Original message------From: Hal Faulkner via SpridgetsDate: Sat,
Sep 5, 2020 2:21 PMTo: Spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] Manifold flange
thicknessListerati,Trying to get off my rear end and make some progress in my
long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960 Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over
1275 with some porting, oversize valves and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old
3 to one exhaust manifold with a Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by
Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that came with the car. The concern I have is
that the flange is thicker on the exhaust than on the intake. Torquing the
manifolds until the exhaust just touches the block (no gasket for this
measurement) leaves the intake manifold with about 35 thousands play. Of
course, this can be taken up in the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the
intake side (of the common studs) sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if
nothing else, doesn't look very cool. The attached photo shows about .035" of
feeler between the washero and the intake manifold flange. The exhaust
manifold is snug.  What would you do? Â
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<div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Try brazing up one side of
the washer and file/grind the brass to about the thickness you need.</div><div
dir="auto">Or! Grind down 1 side of the washer to get the washer to
lay flat.</div><div dir="auto">OR!</div><div dir="auto">Add or subtract to the
manifold or header flange to get them to match.</div><div dir="auto">Now I
wanna know the final "fix" on this one!</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div
dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto"
style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div
style="font-size: 10pt;"><div id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div
dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------ Original message------</div><div
dir="auto"><b>From: </b>Hal Faulkner via
Spridgets<spridgets@autox.team.net></spridgets@autox.team.net></div><div
dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Sat, Sep 5, 2020 2:21 PM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To:
</b>Spridgets;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b></div><div
dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>[Spridgets] Manifold flange thickness</div><div
dir="auto"><br></div></div><div dir="ltr">Listerati,<div>Trying to get off my
rear end and make some progress in my long term overhaul of FROG AYE, my 1960
Frogeye. The engine is now a 20 over 1275 with some porting, oversize valves
and VP-SP3 cam. I have replaced the old 3 to one exhaust manifold with a
Maniflow LCB, the intake manifold is also by Maniflow, for the HS-2 carbs that
came with the car. The concern I have is that the flange is thicker on
the exhaust than on the intake. Torquing the manifolds until the exhaust
just touches the block (no gasket for this measurement) leaves the intake
manifold with about 35 thousands play. Of course, this can be taken up in
the gasket, but that leaves the washer on the intake side (of the common studs)
sitting at a noticeable angle, which ,if nothing else, doesn't look very
cool. The attached photo shows about .035" of feeler between the washero
and the intake manifold flange. The exhaust manifold is
snug. </div><div><br></div><div>What would you
do? </div><div><br></div></div>
</div>
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