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Also check the ferule ends for wear. Sometimes the brass wears and causes
the inner cable to snag.
On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 10:35 AM Ron Corry via Spridgets <
spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Hi Bert,
>
> Three things to check in my opinion:-
>
> 1.) Is there any slack in the cable going to the carbs and are the ferrule
> ends seated correctly (too much slack is not good either). Maybe undo the
> cable clamp to the lever on the carbs; start her up and see if the idle is
> as you have now. If the idle is now good, check out #2 below as well.
>
> 2.) Check carefully in the driver's footwell that there is nothing
> obstructing the correct operation of the pedal and it's cross arm. (My
> carpet moved up and blocked the proper return of the cable / acclr. arm.
> Being stuck in traffic at 2500 revs is not funny!).
>
> 3.) Have you changed the (routing of the) acclr. cable? I did, and when I
> closed the bonnet, it squezed on the cable, and sent the revs up.
>
> Hope these thoughts may work for you. Do share with the group the solution
> to this issue.
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Ron.
>
> On Mon 7 Nov 2022, 04:46 Bert Shirey via Spridgets, <
> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Guys and Gals: Last month I passed down my 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a
>> friend. I had the car 57 years from new, but I can no longer take care of
>> it as it needs 'and it was time to let it go to a good home
>> . Some time ago I replaced the carbs with new SU H2s. Ever since,
>> the idle will not come down. It holds about 1500 RPM normal and higher on
>> fast. Because of back issues, I was never able to properly sort out the
>> trouble. The screws are out to the point of being loose. Before I installed
>> the new carbs I went over the whole car, timing, ignition, plugs, valve
>> adjustment.
>> The car has about 55000 miles and is in mechanically good shape,
>> since I babied it. My friend is not yet a list member, and I still feel
>> some responsibility to help him getting the Midge running properly.He says
>> he checked for vacuum leaks in the usual manner, to no avail. There is a
>> slight oil leak from one of the tappet side covers that I suppose could
>> draw air into the breather, maybe unlikely.
>> Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Bert Shirey.
>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets@autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
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>>
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>>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
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--000000000000fb966205ece74c4e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">Also check the ferule ends for wear. Sometimes the brass =
wears and causes the inner cable to snag.</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 10:35 AM Ron =
Corry via Spridgets <<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridge=
ts@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Hi Bert,<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Three things to check in my opinion:-</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">1.) Is there any slack in the cable going to=
the carbs and are the ferrule ends seated correctly (too much slack is not=
good either). Maybe undo the cable clamp to the lever on the carbs; start =
her up and see if the idle is as you have now. If the idle is now good, che=
ck out #2 below as well.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>2.)=C2=A0 Check carefully in the driver's footwell that there is nothi=
ng obstructing the correct operation of the pedal and it's cross arm. (=
My carpet moved up and blocked the proper return of the cable / acclr. arm.=
Being stuck in traffic at 2500 revs is not funny!).</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">3.) Have you changed the (routing of the) accl=
r. cable? I did, and when I closed the bonnet, it squezed on the cable, and=
sent the revs up.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Hope =
these thoughts may work for you. Do share with the group the solution to th=
is issue.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Kind regards,<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Ron.</div></div><br><div=
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon 7 Nov 2=
022, 04:46 Bert Shirey via Spridgets, <<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">spridgets@autox.team.net</a=
>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0=
0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Guys =
and Gals: Last month I passed down my 1966 MKII 1098 MIdget to a friend. I =
had the car 57 years from new, but I can no longer take care of it as it ne=
eds 'and it was time to let=C2=A0it=C2=A0 go to=C2=A0a=C2=A0good=C2=A0h=
ome<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 . Some time ago I replaced the carbs wi=
th new SU H2s. Ever since, the idle will not come down. It holds about 1500=
RPM normal and higher on fast. Because of back issues, I was never able to=
properly sort out the trouble. The screws are out to the point of being lo=
ose. Before I installed the new carbs I went over the whole car, timing, ig=
nition, plugs, valve adjustment.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 The c=
ar has about 55000 miles and is in mechanically=C2=A0good shape, since I ba=
bied it. My friend is not yet a list member, and I still feel some responsi=
bility to help him getting the Midge running properly.He says he checked fo=
r vacuum=C2=A0leaks in the usual manner, to no avail. There is a slight oil=
leak from one of the tappet side covers that I suppose could draw air into=
the breather, maybe unlikely.</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=
Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Bert Shirey.</div></div>
------------------------<br>
<br>
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gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div>
------------------------<br>
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