Doug,
Does your post mean you are impugning the veracity of Tom's seemingly
authoritative post ( and mine too by implication) Doug?? Or perhaps you
just had a reflex reaction to the words "RTV" and "cork" in the same
sentence. Now, mind you, I'm no big fan of RTV under any alias, but perhaps
you mistook your tube of RTV for a tube of silicone grease the last time
you used it. They look a lot alike and I've almost made that mistake a time
or two myself. (Not half as bad as trying to brush your teeth at 5:30 a.m.
with Preparation H though.)
Since we're on the subject of sealants, let me mention the amazing HYLOMAR.
It's two most impressive properties are 1) it's blue and 2) it's made in
the UK. and, oh yeah, it's also very expensive. Other notable properties
are that it never hardens, is impervious to most fuels, and is able to
withstand temperatures up to 600F ( I know because I read it on the label).
So maybe, just maybe, the only possible improvement on Hall's Full Monty
installation would be the substitution of HYLOMAR sealant for the RTV
(still using the ape slime or whatever we're calling it today to make sure
those little cork suckers stay put.)
Sealing away in San Diego,
Bob
At 08:43 AM 10/18/98 -0400, Doug Mallory wrote:
>If you use the cork doglegs DO NOT USE RTV. The cork will
>not get enough oil on it to swell and seal. Then it will squirt out
>with the slightest pressure. I have had good luck with either choice
>but not both.
>
>Doug
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
>To: Tom Hall <modtiger@engravers.com>
>Cc: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
>Date: Saturday, October 17, 1998 3:49 PM
>Subject: Re: Intake Manifold Gaskets
>
>
>>Tom,
>>
>>Now I'm starting to see why Edelbrock tells people to just use RTV!!
>>
>>Seriously, I believe the procedure you describe constitutes the "Full
>>Monty" installation. Now, if you just use some scotch wool to clean the
>>block surfaces good, apply a thin coat of gorilla snot to both the block
>>and cork (make sure it's the right sides) and wait until they dry before
>>sticking them together, I don't believe you'll have any problem with the
>>gaskets moving; in fact, you'll destroy the gasket trying to get it off.
>>Center punching the block sure couldn't hurt though, but it doesn't obviate
>>the need for a clean surface to glue to.
>>
>>Bob
>>
>>At 09:47 AM 10/17/98 -0700, Tom Hall wrote:
>>>At 08:15 AM 10/17/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>>...
>>>Let's pose the question the other way around: Has anyone out there ever
>>>>used yellow snot, yellow death, contact cement, or whatever you want to
>>>>call it to glue the cork doglegs to the block and had it not seal?? I've
>>>>done it this way a dozen times or more and never had a problem. I think
>it
>>>>requires only slightly more proficiency than just using silicone and I
>feel
>>>>a lot more confident when I'm finished.
>>>
>>> The problem with the cork gaskets is keeping them in place as they are
>>>compressed while tightening the manifold bolts. Contact cement works well
>>>but another "Old Racers Trick" is to prepare the block surface with a
>>>center punch. Using a sharp center punch, strike the block midway between
>>>the inner and outer edges of the cork gasket surface every 3/8" or so
>>>across this surface. The punch leaves craters with sharp raised edges and
>>>these prevent the cork from extruding its way out as it is compressed.
>>>Contact cement on this prepared surface, a light coating of RTV on the top
>>>surface and a bubble of RTV at each tang interface with the manifold
>>>gasket. Essentially bulletproof assembly.
>>>
>>> ps Felpro Print-o-Seal gaskets are very effective for intake sealing. I
>>>also like to
>>> use hardened grade 8 washers under the manifold bolts to obtain uniform
>>> torquing conditions.
>>>
>>>Tom
>>>
>>Robert L. Palmer
>>Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
>>rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
>>rpalmer@cts.com
>>
>
Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
|