I've found that a picklefork works really well (in concert with Thor, of
course), but it will damage the balljoint boots. I sharpened the taper a little
on the one that I have and found that it became way easier to extract stubborn
ball joints.
I've heard from several people, but never managed it myself, that hitting the
spindle on both sides of the taper stud simultaneously will loosen the ball
joints. This method would allow you to remove the ball joint without damaging
its rubber boot.
If you were going to use either method described above then it would be
beneficial to put a _small_ amount of preload on the balljoint using a jack on
the hub (for the lower only), and stay well out of the way of the lower arm's
swing while you're doing this. A friend was removing the spring from a Datsun
MacPherson strut. Clamped the strut assembly in a large vise with the spring
pointing up. He forgot that this was a stock strut (typically on a strut with
stiffer springs, there is no spring preload 'cause it's shorter) and buzzed the
top nut off with an impact wrench without using a spring compressor. The spring
launched about 8 feet up from where it was, then fell to the shop floor, where
it bounced back up and into the door of one of the cars parked there. He wasn't
a popular guy that day.
Theo Smit
tsmit@novatel.ca
B382002705
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Palmer [SMTP:rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 10:53 PM
> To: Dave Binkley; 'Tiger List'
> Subject: Re: Stub axle carrier
>
> Dave,
>
> First of all, thanks for calling it a "stub axle carrier" instead of a
> "spindle". Now then, it's been awhile since I did this last, but for
> starters, I think decompressing the spring lessens the tension on the lower
> taper joint (no effect either way on the upper). Perhaps if you loosen the
> lower ball joint nut and then re-mount a wheel and jack it up, which causes
> the lower A-arm, to be put in tension, it will come loose. Otherwise,
> you'll have to resort to Thor (5# sledge hammer) and/or a puller to get
> them loose. (Use anti-seize when you re-assemble so next time it will be a
> lot easier.)
>
[] <snip>
> Robert L. Palmer
> Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
> rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
> rpalmer@cts.com
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