"James E. Pickard" wrote:
> To open the bonnet on my MkI, I have to pull the bonnet release with
> one hand and lift the bonnet with the other hand at the same time. I
> know it isn't suppose to work like this. I should be able to pull and
> release the bonnet handle and the bonnet should pop open enough to lift
> without further use of the release handle. Anybody know how to fix the
> problem?
>
> Jim Pickard
> B9473298
Jim,
Having just gone through that agony, including locking the hood on the safety
catch and not being able to open it at all, I thought that there MUST be a
better
way. When I installed the LAT hood I found the lost secret of the alignment
process. Or invented one where there never was a good way.
Here's the "Magic":
1) Make sure the body mounted receiver is far enough forward, and the rod
(cable)
length adjustment adequate, to allow the simple pulling, without deforming
anything, to open the retaining jaws and bring the secondary catch to the limit
of
it's forward travel.
2) The resulting position should be fairly centered in the body, but not
critical. AS long as a full pull opens the jaws all the way and brings the hook
to the forward end of it's travel 'cage'.
3) If you have a stock hood you will only need the hood mounted spring to be in
good condition, with all the parts, like the ring at the bottom end and the
secondary hook body. Make sure the small screwdriver slot at the bottom of the
pointed end is adequate for using a screwdriver. Clean up with fine hacksaw
blade
or jewelers file till you can actually insert a small screwdriver.
4) Make sure you have all the mounting hardware bolts, washers and lock nuts.
5) Make sure you remembered which face of the hood mount the catch faces. The
mount is not symmetrical. Mark it before you remove it.
6) Remove the hood mounted hardware. and remove the rod from the plate.
7) Place masking tape on the hood covering the elongated hole that the threaded
rod-spring assembly enters.
8) Put the removed rod in the hood release mechanism deeply enough so the end is
captured by the jaws of the opener. Release the opening pull rod, and the rod
should be firmly captured in the jaws and be sticking into the air.
9) Take some of your wife's nail polish (or your own) or some wet paint and coat
the end of the bolt sticking out.
10) Lightly lower the hood till it just touches the tape, then open the hood and
make sure you have left a clear mark.
11) Place the bracket (right way oriented) on the bolts and lightly thread it
towards the tape. The object is to align the threaded hole with the paint mark.
A flashlight will help.
12) When you are sure it is aligned with where the bolt wants to go, snug up the
bolts. The unit should be fairly straight with the hood rear edge, and you can
rotate it around the paint mark until it is.
13) Use a center punch (automatic spring load is best) and put two marks on the
flat steel plate, on each side of the center hole.
14) using a new 1/8 inch drill bit (preferably one with a bullet nose that self
centers the drill with a smaller size drill in the center (Home Depot), Drill a
hole through the plate and the hood sheet metal. Be careful to only go through
the inner panel, not the outer hood.
15) Do the same with the plate on the body, but you may want 4 holes.
16) These holes are for alignment purposes, and can be used again if you ever
have to take the thing apart.
17) Remove the hood plate, masking tape, and remove the bolt from the body
catch.
18) Re-assemble the hood mounted hardware, making sure the spring ring is on,
the
hook is on the correct face, and is facing the correct direction that you noted
before. Screw the bolt in enough to stick out the other end about 1/4 inch.
19) Lightly bolt the assembly in place on the hood, then align the plate using
the
shaft end of the drill bit, to the pre-determined position. Check both holes
and
snug up the bolts. Check them again and do it over until the bit shank shows
correct alignment. Snug the bolts tight.
20) YOU ARE DONE. The hood bolt will now go exactly into the center of the body
hood catch. The only thing left is to back-off the rear shaft nut, that locks
the
assembly to the mounting plate, and screw the bolt in until the hood is resting
on
the 4 new rubber feet you bought from Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam.
(another pair goes in front).
You can now remove and replace the hood mounted hardware, or the body mounted
hardware at any time and regain perfect alignment. If you are going to get at
the
heater core, you better drill a few more guide holes in the large plate/body on
the edges where the bolts are to put this back in the same position.
If you are going to remove the hood, do the same guide hole trick with the front
hinges to hood. Need at least two diagonally opposite holes per hinge. If you
are removing the bottom part of the hinge, do the same. The hoods are really
tough to get into alignment (providing they are aligned already) If your do not
like your hood alignment, do it first, and drill it, before attempting the rear
catch. The bolts between the hood and the hinge are ONLY for fore/aft movement.
Sideways tweaking will bend them. The bolts on the bottom of the hinge are for
left-right and with spacer shims, up/down in the front. Although I mention
these
last, this is where you start, if it isn't right to begin with. You don't want
to
force anything in order to align it when shutting the hood.
To be PERFECTLY SAFE, running some high test safety wire or fish line from the
safety catch through the front of the car will allow you to release the hood if
the safety catch can't be moved back far enough by the hood release lever. This
shouldn't happen if you have followed the directions.
Hope this helps. It sure worked slick for me.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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