Here's another idea: In Mike Taylor's book, it shows a Tiger engine sitting
on a wooden frame/stand on a work bench being prepared for a rally car. I
modelled my engine stand on that picture, just adding six caster wheels to
make it mobile. Works great and a wag friend of mine stenciled "Property of
Rootes Competitions" on it.
Peter S.
B9471799
randya@pacbell.net wrote:
> I just had to remove and replace my engine for the same purpose. I
> found that
> going out the bottom was rather painless, fast, and was something I
> could do
> by myself.
>
> I was able to remove the engine and have the cross member back in place
> (to
> make it a rolling body) in about an hour or so. I was also able to
> install the engine
> back into the painted engine compartment and reinstall the cross member
> in
> a couple of hours max, by myself, without scratching up the new paint.
>
> What makes the job possible (besides a big engine hoist) is a modified
> warehouse
> pallet. The engine is lowered onto the pallet to get it out from under
> the car.
> You will have to nail so additional wood to the pallet so the engine
> sits firmly.
> The pallet also has to be trimmed so it will fit between the engine
> hoist legs, and it has to
> have small heavy duty casters attached so it will roll around. Try to
> get the center of
> gravity for the engine *and trans* close to the center of the pallet.
> The trans is a *heavy*
> sucker!
>
> Here is the procedure I used for engine removal. I make no claims for
> safety, so
> use at your own risk.
>
> A) Removal of front crossmember.
> 1) leave wheels on crossmember!
> 2) attach engine hoist to engine via some grade 5 bolts in heads.
> Attach to front of left head
> and rear of right head.
> 3) Lift engine and body so that the weight is off the crossmember but
> the wheels are still
> in contact with the floor.
> 4) Support the front of the crossmember (using blocks of wood or a
> jackstand) and
> remove the 4 retaining bolts. Detach steering column and brake line
>
> at the junction fitting. Crossmember should be detached from the
> body at this point.
> 5) Use the engine hoist to raise up the car up to the point that the
> modified pallet
> will fit under the engine. Support the car with jackstands.
> 6) Detach the engine hoist from the engine, and pull it back. You can
> now hold
> on to the front of the crossmember, and just wheel it out of the
> way. This is a
> whole lot easier than trying to drag it around without wheels
> attached.
>
> B) Removal of Engine
> 1) move pallet under engine.
> 2) attach engine hoist to engine and apply enough pressure to support
> the engine
> 3) detach engine and trans mounts (and all the other stuff connecting
> the engine to
> the body)
> 4) lower engine on to pallet
> 5) detach engine hoist, move it out of the way
> 6) wheel engine out from under the car (hopefully you raised the car
> high enough to
> clear the carb!)
> 7) roll cross member back under car, and support the front with blocks
> or jackstand
> as before.
> 8) roll engine hoist back over to car, and attach the hoist chain to the
> body where the
> motor hangers were attached. You can use the original bolts for
> this; just get some
> nuts which fit them.
> 9) Lift up the body using the engine hoist, remove the jackstands, and
> lower the body
> on to the crossmember.
> 10) Bolt the crossmember back onto the frame.
>
> Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly, as the manual always says.
>
> Chris Mottram wrote:
>
> > OK, Now I'm confused. I decided to check the archives
> > before pleading for the "Dummies guide to Tiger engine
> > removal" . There were methods for out the top and out
> > the bottom. I want to yank the engine to allow for
> > painting of the engine compartment at the body shop.
> > Should I pull it out the top so I don't have to remove
> > all the steering and stuff? I will be using a tow
> > dolly to bring the rolling chasis to the body/paint
> > guy. I have not done this before. Would it be worth
> > it to let the body shop pull the engine?
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > =====
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