Steve,
Thanks for the information. Sure enough, I was sent rubber for an older
hardtop. Fortunately I have a hardtop to body seal I can use. Guess I'll
send the new one back. I've tried cutting the corner pads as you described,
but the pad is way to thick. I see no way that these things will fit my
hardtop, especially with the triangular metal piece in place. Does anyone
make the correct corner pads? What about CAT? What other surprises are in
store for me?
Dan Eiland
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Laifman <Laifman@Flash.Net>
To: Daniel S. Eiland <deiland1@elp.rr.com>
Cc: Tigers@autox,team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>; Alpines
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, February 12, 2000 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Hardtop Corner Pad
>"Daniel S. Eiland" wrote:
>
>> Hi Listers,
>>
>> I'm in the process of putting the hardtop back together after having
it
>> repainted. Got out the corner pads I bought from Rick at SS, and they are
>> very high quality but are a little bit different than mine. Hadn't really
>> noticed before. It looks like the old pads were cut to fit the corners.
Does
>> anyone know if that is what I am suppose to do with the new pads?
>
>> Dan Eiland
>
>Dan,
>
>There are two different designs of hard top rear seal. The later models
(MkIA and
>up) can be recognized by the small holes on the area below the rear window,
and
>the extra 2 1/2-in. guide for the bottom rubber between the side guide and
the
>rear guide.
>
>The corner pads are significantly smaller, as well, and have a triangular
piece of
>metal that holds them in with a sheet metal screw.
>
>The sealing rubber is NOT the wide flat kind, but more like your door
seals. They
>are a narrow soft rubber with a flat top with lips that fit into the
guides. It is
>one piece that goes from door to door, guided by the strips. No adhesive
is
>necessary, or should be used.
>
>If you kept the original rubber corners, you can trim the new ones of the
old
>design available from Sunbeam Specialties to fit. This requires cutting
away the
>excess internal material inside the triangular metal hold-down panel. Not
>difficult, but wish there were an exact replacement.
>
>In my opinion, this seal is much superior to the original flat one, as the
top
>floats on the rubber, and any top movement does not slide the rubber on the
paint,
>but distorts the new seal design. Much better rain if, as well, due to the
softer
>material, higher degree of compression, allowing conformity with the body
>contours.
>
>The older design can be converted to the new design with these two small
channels
>pop-riveted to the top, between the existing channels. Same bent metal
channel
>design as original side and back strips.
>
>I've tried both styles and greatly prefer the newer design.
>
>Steve
>
>
>--
>Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
>B9472289 < important in your life >
> < and don't let it get away!>
>
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