Tom,
I'll second Chris' nomination of Eastwood's Coroless. I've spoken to a
couple of restorers in my area that have had good experience with it. It is
easier to work with than POR 15, in that it acts (for most purposes) like a
primer. Painting over it is no problem with enamels, epoxies, and some
urethanes (don't know which as I'm using enamel). Other urethanes and all
lacquers are right out. They recommend scuff sanding for max topcoat
adhesion, especially if more than 36 hours have passed since applying the
Coroless.
It is apparently a very effective rust inhibitor, and goes on right over
over scale (arresting it's progress). Eastwood advertises it as being used
on deep sea oil rigs to prevent corrosion. One of the restorers I spoke
with preps frames with a pressure wash and a quick once over with a wire
brush to knock off the loose stuff -- that's it.
I just primed the undercarriage, wheelwells, interior, trunk, and engine
compartment of my car with it. I'll let you know how it turns out in about
15 years ;-).
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hill <Pirouette@uisreno.com>
To: Tom Witt <wittsend@jps.net>; <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 4:49 AM
Subject: Re: paint advice needed
> Tom,
> POR 15 is a very good product with some caveats:
>
> 1) BELIEVE IT, when they say you'll wear it if it drys on you. You
should
> look like one of those supplied air painting suits when you're working
with
> it, and keep some good quality laquer thinner nearby just in case.
>
> 2) As somone mentioned, topcoating is touchy. When completely cured,
it's
> like epoxy primer after the 'window' has closed (very hard and smooth, so
> the topcoat won't grip), but the window closes really fast! Like two
hours
> or so if it's warm. Hit it when it's tacky and you've got a seal, but
that
> window is even shorter and you can theoretically lift the POR if you try
too
> soon. or the topcoat if you try too late.
>
> The good points are:
>
> 1) It works. I did alot of prep down to bare metal with a rotary wire
> brush, but that certainly didn't get to the bottom of the numerous pits.
> POR and a 'holding' topcoat of DP90 (that's black DP40) have never been
> broached after 10-12 years anywhere in alot of surface area of differing
> initial condition.
>
> 2) Tim's way is undoubtedly the best, but this is alot less work
>
> 3) POR is like any coating, it will grip well if it was something to
bite.
> It stands for PaintOverRust, which you can do as long as it's not scale,
but
> sandblasted metal is perfect.
>
> 4) If #2 above sounds iffy, it's just a matter of practice, a few test
> panels makes it easy.
>
> Bill Hirsch is supposedly a POR 15 knockoff, so all of the above
> probably applies. But do check Caroless (sp. -1, it's something like
that)
> from Eastwood. It often gets even higher marks than POR in reviews and I
> think might be easier to work with.
>
>
> Chris Hill
>
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