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Re: New engine

To: "Ronak, TP (Timothy)" <Timothy.P.Ronak@akzo-nobel.com>
Subject: Re: New engine
From: Steve Laifman <Laifman@flash.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 08:15:10 -0700
Tim,

I do not know all the answers to your questions, but in investigating all
possibilities (inquiring minds want to know), I have had a few interesting
revelations.  I'll share them with you, but they are "hear-say", and should be
confirmed by examination.


"Ronak, TP (Timothy)" wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I have just discovered a rattle from inside the original 260 and by all of
> my investigation it sounds like a cracked piston skirt. I originally was
> going to repair it but found some bad stuff with the cam and the heads as
> well......so I have decided to build a replacement and would like some
> feedback if you all would be so good.

Bummer!

> I have found a 1990 HO 302 (5.0) I guess they are called 5.0 if the water
> pump is reverse rotation.

They are 5.0 because the displacement is larger. (Stroke increase).  I am told
by my son-in-law, a Mustang expert, that the early 5.0's had a great deal of
trouble with breaking off the bottoms of the piston skirts because the piston
came further out of the bore at BDC.  This was cured in the blocks built when
the "H.O." versions came out by new piston design.  I think they were made by
TRW.  Short engine life without.

> I have a few questions.
> I have agreed to purchase some heads from Theo so I will have twisted wedge
> heads.
> Here are my questions:
> 1.      The Balancer center area seems to stick out a long ways and I was
> wondering if I need to get it milled down or not? Can I drill the 4-bolt
> pattern into the stock pulley?

Most conversions I've read about do have a solvable problem in this area.  You
do need to have the water pump pulley farther back than normal.  This required
that Ford use their short neck pumps, and put the hub on backwards to get the
fan bolt plane further back.  That's why there's a one inch hole, it's the back
side of the hub.  This is then matched to a special lower pulley that has the
sheave in the same plane.  Another issue is the harmonic balancer. The 4 bolt
model has a different balance weight (50 oz, I believe) than the 3 bolt (28 oz)
to avoid the wrong installation.  I believe there are Ford 4 bolt pulleys that
have the sheaf as far back as you need, but probably for some truck
application, or that has one of it's dual sheaves cut off.  Watch out for the
balance weight of the flywheel too.

> 2.      Does the reverse rotation water pump still flow the same as the
> stock Tiger pump?

Yes, but you can't use it unless you use the entire set-up, including
alternator, wide belt, and pulleys.  Still watch the front length.  Many change
the timing chain cover to the original aluminum pump version, and use a
Tiger-like pump which can be obtained from Sunbeam Specialties (not a Ford
unit), or Edelbrock makes a super high performance model intended for the Hi-Po
engine that seems to have the short snout and the right flange offset. Costs a
lot, and even more if you want it polished, but reputedly works well.

> 3.      I know I need a 6 bolt bellhousing but do I need a particular one or
> do I need a particular clutch fork?

I have heard that the 6 bolt bell housing came in different "flavors".  Some
were even cast iron.  There appear to have been changes in how the fork is
mounted, and how it travels and pivots, that make later models not suitable.
There are also differences is clutch diameter and number of flywheel teeth that
will influence what clutch, flywheel, and starter are correct.  Again, watch
out for that 28/50 oz engine external balance, as it is on the flywheel as
well.

>
> 4.      The head are supposed to have .350" taller valve cover rail. Will
> this be a problem for valve cover clearance?

And if you use roller rockers, they need attention in the valve cover design or
mods.  The TIGER  lettered valve cover was made from the COBRA castings, with
an inset change, and have the rear fins ground off to clear the firewall.  With
a normal height head!  Not saying it can't be done, because I've seen it, but
there must be some tricks I am not aware of.  I can get you about 3/16 to 1/4
inch clearance.  Just remove the washers between the engine and the motor
mounts.  This will lower the engine.  Unfortunately it lowered by 6 blade
Canadian Ford fan, so carefully cut to clear, right onto the steering rack,
where it "force fitted" itself to the new height.  Bummer.

There are height increase differences between aluminum heads.  I have heard,
but have not verified, that the TFS heads (Twisted Wedge) are a little thicker
than the Edelbrocks, and also do not have threadserts in areas where steel
bolts go, as the Edlebrock does.  Needs verification by someone who knows.

>
> 5.      Can I use the Tiger Flywheel? If not which one do I need?

No, the balance is wrong, but Yes I believe it can be corrected. Watch out for
OD of ring gear and number of teeth.  There is something about starter matches.

>
> PS: I refuse to cut the car in any way.

Going to have a problem getting a new key made.  {9->

Good luck, Tim.  I know this can be done, as I've seen it. I also know there
are a lot of tricks and special bell housing numbers, etc.  Gave you as much
"misdirection" as I remember.

When your done, you can write the illustrated article on how to do it
correctly.

Steve




--
Steve Laifman         < Find out what is most     >
B9472289              < important in your life    >
                      < and don't let it get away!>

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