Jim, good job on the tandem MC installation. I went a Datsun MC as the
hole are vertical, but interesting enough, the bore is also 13/16", and
it was $65, not $20. Shipping costs are expensive.
An alternative is to go to Brit Vic's catalog as there are three way
fittings for other british cars in brass that are cheap, if you don't
want to or can't silver solder.
Nice write up.
James Barrett wrote:
> A few weeks ago I noted that I had changed to a dual
> inline master cylinder on my Tiger II. The bore is 13/16
> and so far it has worked like a champ. Peddle pressure is
> less than the original 7/8" Girling ( without the power
> The master cylinder is from a 84 to 86 Mustang with power brakes.
> I use the cylinder without the power booster. The cylinder is
> aluminum and the "Parts Master" number is 10-1907. Adapters are
> required to mate with the 3/16" lines. These are Edelmann Brass
> 258350 and 258303. The fittings come out the passenger side of
> the cylinder. I fabricated a push rod from a grade 8 bolt welded
> to a "U" shaped yoke. I also fabricated a spacer for the master
> cylinder that is about twice the thickness of the normal Girling
> spacer. I cut the right mounting tab and redrilled it closer to
> the cylinder to miss the steering column. If you still have the
> clutch master cylinder you may have to do the same to the left side
> and drill two more holes in the dash at right angles to the original
> master cylinder bolt holes.
> Alternative is to fabricate a spacer ( aluminum) that has provisions
> to mount in the original firewall bolt holes and also mate with the
> Mustang master cylinder. This spacer would be "X" shaped.
> Since the master cylinder is from a very rare car, I had to spend $19.62
> for the cylinder, core charge, fittings and tax. 8-)
> Brake line connections are:
> For the rear there is a coupler underneath on the right side of the
> transmission tunnel. I took standard US 3/16" brake line, cut off one
> end and placed one of the coupler's female fitting on the new line.
> A double flare done with the RIGDID flaring tool completed that line.
> For the front I ran a line to where the 4 way fitting
> previously existed. If you use the 4 way fitting (plus brake
> light switch) then use a british 3/16 bubble end at the fitting and
> use a flaring tool to convert the bubble on the master cylinder end to
> a US flare. The 4th hole must be sealed. Suggest that a short
> length of original brake tubing be sealed with silver solder to
> solve that problem. Be sure you clean the old line inside before
> you attempt to silver solder it shut.
> I will soon convert my Alpine to dual master cylinder.
> About 5 years ago the front brake steel line of the Alpine failed
> when my daughter was driving and she crashed. Fortunally it
> was a very minor crash as she was in a shopping center parking
> lot at the time and she simply crashed into a concrete curb.
> I am aware that a dual master cylinder on a Tiger or an
> Alpine will upset some people because it is no longer original.
> So be it. I also changed the British air out of my tires a long time ago.
> James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others