Tom,
I have two drums you can have for free but shipping to CA from Zambia will
be the killer. I'm fitting Peuguot 504 rear disks and Ford Sierra (common
Europe/RSA car) rear calipers.
My neighbour failed to removed my hubs with his 20 ton press. Got them off
with a 50 ton press and oxy-acetelene. Like yours, no rust present. I will
polish them a bit or use moly on reassembly since there is a key there.
cheers, derek
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Witt <wittsend@jps.net>
To: tigers@autox.team.net <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: 06 April 2001 21:50
Subject: Rear bearings, Brake drum questions
>-Many months ago when I pulled the axles (hub, bearings, backing plate etc.
>as a unit) it took a special homemade puller and and about 20 full force
>wacks with a 10 pound sledge hammer before the outer bearing shell would
>release from its rear housing (yes, the backing plate was unbolted, I did
>apply heat and no there was no rust present). This in turn has ruined the
>bearings. 1. My concern is that when reinstalling is the mere force of the
>backing plates being tightened supposed to move the outer bearing shell
back
>into the housing? It took a W-H-O-L-E lot more force to get it out (like as
>in the force almost pulled the car off the jackstands). 2. It seems prudent
>to use too many shims to initially set the axle endplay. That way the extra
>shims (where can they be purchased?) could just be removed (after taking a
>reading), the backing plate retightened and the setting should be proper.
My
>concern here is that if the reading is no endplay or too little I will have
>to apply opposite force to the bearing (to create the play) which in my
case
>damaged the bearings prior. Does anyone recommend honing the axle bearing
>bore out (slightly, I know it can't be loose) to make the fitting less
>compressed. Note: I would not trust using the old shim values as the
>differential was changed and the floating piece that that transfers the
>thrust may be of a slightly different dimention. Not to mention that there
>was no detectable endplay before I pulled it apart anyway.
>-Are there any brake drums from other cars that fit the Tiger? I heard
>something about the "available at Pick A Part" Mercury Capri (the old
ones).
>The hubs also took gargantuan force to remove. As many of you probably know
>the axle with the backing plate attached is not conducive to removing the
>hub (or the bearing for that matter) with a press as it gets in the way. In
>my 101 attempts to get the hub off I tried supporting the hub with the
drum.
>Big mistake. Advantage - stuck hub! Now I need a drum (and being that this
>may be the most "budget" Tiger rebuild - ever - buying a new one is not "on
>budget"). If anyone has a deal on a used drum I'm listening or if you have
>an old out of legal spec hub for free (I'm in Thousand Oaks Ca.), well,
>temporarily I just need to push the car around, but it would be nice to
have
>brakes regardless of how slow a push is. By the way, to get the hub off I
>finally bolted it to the spare tire (with the air out), closely supported
>the rim with two sawhorses, applied penetrating oil, heated the hub,
>cushioned the loosened castlenut with a steel plate and wacked the thing at
>least ten times with full overhead swings from a 10 pound sledge hammer
>before it would come loose. Again as with the bearings there was virtually
>no rust. It seems absurd to me that repairs can be made removing these
parts
>with an ordinary slide hammer and that the parts won't get damaged in the
>process. At least not after what I experienced. Thanks if any can help in
>any way, Tom Witt B9470101
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