Frank,
When our cars exhibit that kind of behavior at any speed it indicates
something is wrong.
First, I strongly agree with the other list responses: old tires are
dangerous and they can be unpredictable. From the moment tires are removed
from their mold, they outgas and continually become harder and harder. They
can
get so hard its something like the steel wheel roller-skates we had as kids:
they roll straight ahead or slide sideways with about the same amount of
traction. If the tires are flat-spotted from sitting, you can have the
equivalent
of two different compounds of rubber on the same tire carcass. I'll never
forget using the original Dunlop spare tire that sat in the trunk tirewell for
years: going around turns it would howl like a European Police car siren (two
alternating tones). To win in the racing world, competitive cars get new tires
every session on the racetrack. If you are interested, I can send you
(off-list) a picture of a Tiger that was seriously damaged at a West Coast
convention
specifically due to 10 year old tires: it simply did not negotiate a 35 mph
corner at about 20-25 mph. Bizarre accident. Please, buy new tires. I
usually
get mine thru www.tirerack.com
Regarding 14" or 15" steel wheels, keep in mind our cars have 7/16"
wheel studs and most steel wheels you will find are designed to use 1/2" wheel
studs. It is not a good idea having the taper on the wheel nuts (alone) both
determine the centering of the wheel and retain it. Many have gotten away
using 1/2" hole wheels, but again, I can send a picture showing what happens
when
there is a mismatch and the lug areas rip out of a steel wheel: this happened
to my car 24 years ago and the experience was unforgettable. Alfa Romeo (old)
used 14" wheels with small stud holes which will bolt right on your car.
Consider using "mag" wheels: you can select appropriate nuts to fit both the
wheels and the studs from www.SummitRacing.com
As another reply said, worn front suspension parts can certainly
contribute. Tired upper and lower 'A' arm bushings, upper and lower ball
joints,
tie rod ends, a loose steering rack or even too little front wheel bearing
preload can be factors. Also check the four front suspension mounting bolts:
you
would be amazed how many cars have one or more of these bolts loose or
missing. Check the bolts retaining your steering arms (page 26, section F in
your
shop manual): during autocross tech inspections I have found two cars with
loose
bolts. While you are inspecting, check for cracks in your front crossmember.
Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle
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